DIY Garage Makeover

Most of my friends know I collect cars so when they visit, inevitably they want to visit the garage and check out the cars. While I enjoyed working in my shop, there was a vast contrast between the well-maintained cars and the unfinished presentation of the building they called home. It was time for a garage makeover!

I'm pretty handy with a miter saw, nail gun and even sheetrock mud so I set out to develop a plan. Besides, all the cars are running great and I needed something to work on. 

Unfinished Garage

Our existing garage was a nice 24x24 foot space with 8' ceiling. The exterior looked nice enough, but the inside was simply not finished. Exposed 2x4" studs 16" on center with trusses overhead spaced 24" apart. The floor was a cracked unfinished concrete slab. There was no insulation making the interior impossibly hot in the Arizona summer. 

Insulation and sheetrock would be simple enough, but I wanted to make a nice space that was worthy of the 1978 Corvette Hotrod and my sweetheart's 1956 Thunderbird. 

The first step was to move all the electrical outlets higher on the wall to about 43". This would allow easy access to the outlets without having to climb behind tool chests or benches. I replaced the breakers with 20 AMP GFI type one for the left side and one for the right. I also mounted one outlet in the ceiling for each car just in case I wanted to hang a trickle charger above each car. I used 12/2 Romex with a ground wire and heavy-duty outlets.  

I also added a 30 AMP 220 V circuit to the outside of the long wall terminated in a weatherproof box. This would support a split air conditioning/heat pump system. 

Next was insulation and with only 2x4 studs and only 4" of space on the exterior walls, I considered foam for the increased R-value and amazing vapor barrier. I've used this in my house before with exceptional results, but at almost $3000 the price was just too high for the garage. I opted for Owens Corning pink insulation with a paper vapor barrier. Using a small compressor I attached an Arrow PT50 Pneumatic Staple Gun to quickly install the insulation. 

I wanted a durable surface that was attractive and also was looking to break up the wall. I landed on installing corrugated steel roof panels up to 36" then shiplap for the remainder of the wall. 

Corrugated Metal Wall Installation

Corrugated metal roofing is available at Home Depot from Gibraltar in 6-foot Galvanized Steel Roof Panel to minimize cutting -- one sheet would cover twice the space. I also found a nice way to finish the ends. I used 1/4" galvanized J-Trim that is usually used to finish the end of sheetrock as a way to provide a finishing touch to the corrugated metal. Since corrugated metal is designed for 24" roof trusses, and is only 29 gauge thick I opted to install 1/4" plywood on the 2x4 studs prior to screwing the roofing to the wall. Together with the 1" fasteners, the plywood provided the necessary support to keep the metal sheets from rattling. The entire metal installation process goes like this:

1. Install the 1/4" plywood
2. Install the baseboard leaving 1/2" space between floor and bottom of the base
3. Cut the corrugated metal sheet in half with Wiss Aviation Snips
4. Using a clutched power driver, screw the metal panels to the wall, making sure to hit the studs when possible. I used two rows of screws installing the bottom row first and put the top row in only after installing the J-trim. Make sure to overlap the panels.
5. Overlap more or less to adjust the length and minimize the need to cut with the bends. 
6. Trim the top and any rough edges with the J-Trim. No need to use screws to fasten the J-Trim because the first shiplap board will hold it in place. 

Starting at the top of the J-Trim, install the first piece of Shiplap using a miter saw to trim and level to make sure it is straight. Some may want to start with a piece of trim, but I thought the J-Trim looked clean and liked seeing the top edge of the J-trim. I used a nail gun with 16 gauge finish nails to nail the shiplap directly to the studs. Because we are running the boards across the studs there is I did not feel the need to install strips because the studs are visible. If you are installing shiplap vertically or over sheetrock, strips are a great idea.

Shiplap is usually rough cut and inconsistent, so a gap between planks will provide that old barn siding look. I used the lip of carpenter's square to provide a consistent space between planks. Sliding the square from side to side while holding a level at the top edge provided an easy way to make sure the planks are square.

Hint: consider doing a little planning for the size of the gap. Trimming the top plank with a table saw will be necessary and adjusting the gap will eliminate a strange size top plank and could minimize trimming.

Continue the shiplap installation but leave a gap of a couple of boards until the sheetrock has been installed on the ceiling. Consider using trim pieces to clean up the corners and top as the wood will expand and contract over time.

All that remains for my project is to determine the type of flooring to put in the garage and install the climate control system, but so far the garage is much more comfortable and I'm not ashamed to take my friends to see our cars.

The Best Dystopian Truck - Into the Badlands

Part of the fun of owning an iconic vehicle is taking notice when it appears in film and TV. One of my favorite G-Sightings was in the first season of The Man in the High Castle. The producers selected the G-Wagen as the military truck in an alternate post-WWII timeline where the Japanese and German prevailed. A G-Class variant also appeared in the short-lived TV NBC series, Blood and Oil driven by Don Johnson's character Harlan "Hap" Briggs.

Ally Ioannides on Set

One of the biggest surprises was when I was watching my daughter in her show Into the Badlands and saw the G-Wagon used in the popular dystopic marshall arts drama. How perfect, in a land without computers, guns and only the most basic of technology remains, the good old 80's G will thrive.

My daughter invited me and my sweetheart to visit the set during the shooting of season 3 and as luck would have it, we were able to visit the set of the Window's fort. Behind the fort was a collection of trucks that were used for the shoot. Among them - a couple of W641 former military G-Wagons.

I was shooting black and white film loaded in a Contax G2 Camera so the photos here lack color but it only seems to accentuate the miserable conditions on set. Why anyone would want to work in this rainy, muddy, cold and wet environment is beyond me. But once again the truck seemed perfectly at home in such an inhospitable environment.

So for those of us who have the early G-Wagons that, once started, require no electricity and can run on vegetable oil, we know that producers looking for the perfect truck for the dystopic post-apocalyptic world would do well to pick the iconic G-Wagon.

On the Set of Into the Badlands

New or Old

The Mercedes Gelandewagen has been on the road, and off, since 1979.  Even with the "makeover" in 2019, the truck maintains it's iconic rugged look and exceptional visibility. While European drivers have been enjoying G-Wagons for years, it was not until 2002, when Mercedes-Benz started selling the truck in the US, could you run down to your MB dealer in the states and buy one.

Now with the availability to import cars over 25 years old, including the German and Austrian military surplus competing with the older US G-Class models are available on the 2nd hand market, the decision for those who want a G can be complicated. The basic question becomes: "Do I get an older Euro import or North American Spec (NOS)  G?" As the owner of several of each, I'm going to give you my perspective.

I have owned 3 G's and driven about 15 different versions from a 1985 300G with a turbo upgrade to the AMG G55, and can tell you the experience is more the same than different. From 1979 through 2018, all Gelandewagens feature dual solid axels, ladder on frame construction, coil suspension and 4x4 capability. All of this topped off with a tall, boxy interior with huge windows. As big as the truck looks, it is pretty narrow and the interior can be cozy in the back seat. Think of all G-Wagons as a heavy, 4x4 truck only narrower and shorter. It may be the best compact truck ever produced.

The W460/W461

The W460 and military W461 are very similar in style, build and capability. Having owned both, I can say that there is almost no difference in driving W640 from the 80's and just about all of the W461s. They are excellent off road with a soft easy going way about them. They are comfortable in rough terrain and extremely capable. While you can get variants in gas and diesel with automatic or standard transmissions, I personally prefer the standard diesel versions with the 3L inline 5 engine. Some feel that the late 80's and early 90's were a golden era of Mercedes engines with standouts like the DOHC 2.8, the 3.0 Diesel and the 3.0 straight 6 found in the 300E. All of these engines found their way into early G's. I know some off-road enthusiasts prefer automatic transmissions, but the limited horsepower and high RPM of the MB diesel make the manual a must for road driving. That being said the 300GE, while very rare in the US, is a reliable road truck with very good power and very good high-speed cruising capability.

In normal drive mode, these trucks are rear-wheel drive. It is easy to engage 4-wheel drive while moving simply by shifting the transfer case. In 4 wheel drive mode, the front and back axles are locked together. This is good for off-road, but not so good for road driving. When braking at highway speeds, it is necessary to allow the front breaks to do most of the stopping. Locking the front axes to the rear defeats the proper distribution of breaking and can cause fishtailing. This can be dangerous in snow and wet conditions especially at high speeds.

Because the truck is heavy, you won't see much in acceleration or top speed. Mountain highway driving can be frustrating, however, long drives on level ground will allow you to cruise at 65 MPH even without overdrive.

Off-road is where the truck is amazing. With the ability to lock the front and rear axles from the inside at any time is really nice. I don't know that I have ever been able to get this truck stuck. It does a very good job of keeping all four wheels on the ground and can cross some pretty deep water. I've even towed a trailer and while not fast, the OM614 inline 5 has plenty of torque.

Pros: Great torque, excellent off-road capability, rear and forward locking axels on most models, no computers, the awesome OM617 on the 300GD will run forever, easy to get parts, low purchase price, relatively good fuel economy and easy to fix. Basically your perfect zombie apocalypse vehicle.

Cons: Spartan interior, prone to body rust, poor acceleration, limited top speed, loud on the road, spongy ride that works well off-road, not good on the highway in snow or rain.

Summary: While not the best as a daily driver, if you are looking for a special purpose off-road vehicle, hunting car or weekend fun truck, I found the W461 to be a far better experience than a Jeep Wrangler and much more comfortable off-road. If you want a W640, consider one of the well maintained former military trucks. Military trucks often have low miles/kilometers and are very well maintained compared to the civilian versions. If you are thinking of getting a W640 and doing an engine swap for more power, consider simply getting a newer US Spec truck and enjoy.

NOS G-Class

For the US market, Mercedes-Benz took the G-Wagon truck and turned it into a family urban assault vehicle. Fortunately, unlike the GM Hummer that was made to look like a Humvee on a pickup truck chassis, the G-Class is actually made alongside the military version with the same frame and body. All of the G-Class sold in the US since 2005 share some common traits. They all have V8 engines, automatic transmissions, some degree of an upgraded interior, creature comforts and they have been modified for road use. While still very capable off-road most are shipped with wheels and tires best suited the highway. 

Road driving is very nice although truck-like. If you can afford the fuel, they work very well for a daily driver. They keep the spongy soft ride except for the AMG versions that are outfitted with stiffer suspension for a better road handling. In our household, the stock G55 became a favorite for grocery shopping because of the ability to park it in small spaces and accessibility of the cargo area. All G-Class trucks have good powerplants and the AMG versions accelerate crazy fast for a truck. A friend of mine calls my G55 Saque because he says it moves really well for a large heavy truck. We also have an F150 with the EcoBoost engine and in the mid 400hp range that is crazy quick but feels HUGE next to the G55. I do wish the G gas tank was larger because on long road trips, with a fuel economy running around 12 MPG, I have to stop frequently for fuel. 

The newer trucks also feature the awesome Mercedes-Benz interior experience. Decent stereo, hands-free Bluetooth, cruise control, heated/cooled leather seats, lots of airbags, mostly quiet ride at lower speeds, sunroof, dual mode climate control, turn lights and even a backup camera make the truck almost refined. Heck, it is almost a nice date car. 

Off-road, the car is crazy capable but you will find the AMG versions a little stiff. Also, AMG decided to lower the truck 2" to improve cornering on the road. This allows the truck to actually perform a little better on the road. Unfortunately, it means you have to be careful about driving off-road. The clearance is still more than enough to handle most situations and the engine is plenty powerful, but you should at least fit the truck better off-road tires and a modest 2" lift if you plan to take the car on many adventures.

Unlike the older G-Wagons, the newer models feature all-wheel drive as a default driving mode rather than rear-wheel. This combined with the ABS braking is a huge plus in the snow and road driving. With electronic locking differentials, the driver is prevented from engaging 4-wheel drive mode unless the transfer is set to low. That means on any truck after 2005 the transfer case needs to be set to low to lock the transfer case, front or rear axels unless and then only in a particular order. Transfer case first, then back axel, and only then the front. The nice thing is that as soon as you lock the transfer case, the computer and ABS is disengaged and you can drive this like a normal truck. OLD SCHOOL BABY!

If you plan to drive off-road often, get some Hutchenson beadlocks, off-road tires, put in some portal axels and you will have one of the most bad-ass and most capable off-road setups available. Can you say four-by-four-squared?

Pros: Nice around town, good daily driver, solid feel, great driving experience, capable off-road, lots of power, amazing in the snow, lots of visibility, very reliable, crazy good engineering and rust-resistant body. Honestly, they are fun to drive.

Cons: Horrible fuel economy, stiff for off-road, side pipes not really practical, people assume you are a jerk.

Summary: Most people who purchased the G-Class trucks, used them as a second car and almost never took them off road. You can find some low mileage, accident-free examples that can make this a compelling option. If you are looking for an off-road setup get the G500 or G600 put some beadlocks, upgrade the shocks. some off-road tires and GO. Think of all those people who get Wranglers and drop an LS engine in and upgrade the suspension. Your G-Glass will probably get similar performance, be a great daily driver and ultimately cost less that an extreme Wrangler mod.

The Answer is?

It really depends on what you are looking for. I've never had anyone stop me when driving my G55 and say, "cool truck" but the in the 300GD I get comments all the time, mostly "What is that?" So if you are looking for the cool factor, go vintage for sure. If you are looking for a nice driving experience and are planning to have it as a daily driver, get a newer G-Class. If driving often in the snow and ice, get a newer one with AWD standard and ABS breaks. Both new and old will serve you well off-road as long as you upgrade the tires on the G-Glass and if getting the AMG version consider lifting it a couple of inches and get some real off-road wheels/tires for off-road use.

That being said, I wish MB would sell the BluTec, PUR of Professional versions in the US. That would be my first choice!

Gwagon Speedometer Upgrade

Like many of us, the odometer on the original VDO speedometer was shot. It would sometimes work, sometimes stick and often just sit there. for older cars, this may not be an issue, but I wanted to know simple things like, how far I traveled and when to change the oil. While I was lucky to have an MPH speedo, many of the imported G's from the 80's, feature Kilometer measurements. Here is a quick and easy solution for many of us.

Original VDO Speedometer

For the purest, it would be best to send your speedo off for repair. There are many good resources that repair classic speedometers and the original VDO unit is very nice. In my case, I wanted an upgrade.

A quick search of available VDO gages and you will find nice digital VDO gauge that will fit directly in the existing cluster. I settled on a VDO Vision Black 85 MPH/130 KpH Speedo (12/24V) - 3 3/8" - Vision Black model number 437-152. The bonus is that for those of us who have 24v G's this gauge will work!

For those of you who think a 120 MPH gage is better, think about it for a second. These trucks rarely go over 70 much less 85.

 I ordered the sender and the gauge from eGuages.com. The bonus is the new speedo is only about $130!

Existing Cruise Control Sensor

The old gage worked by a spinning cable that comes from the transfer case to the back of the old speedo. The new unit, however, is 100% electronic. An electronic pulse is required to measure the speed of the car. The speed can be picked up by a pulse coming from any part of the drivetrain after the transmission.

It is very easy to access the cluster. Two screws one on each side then the back cover comes off. Simply unscrew the cable, remove the lights and you push the old speedo out of the front of the cluster. then I took the rubber surround from the old speedo and put it on the new one and slid it in.

The wiring instructions come with the new speedo, the only strange thing is the new speedo does not have a blinker light. That is not a big deal, I just wired the blinker indicator to the one on the sash luster and I was all good.

Then came the hard part. Getting some sort of speed signal to the new speedo. Let's just say I found it impossible to find an adaptor that would fit the pulse generator to the existing speedometer cable or transfer case.  I was lucky because when I followed the old speedometer cable I found an electronic sensor connected to the cable under the dash. At one point my G must have been equipped with cruise control, so I wired the connectors to the new speedometer and while it did not register the correct speed, it did work.

The wiring was pretty simple. as follows:

12V constant to Pin 4
Ground to Pin 3

New Speedometer

Existing Sensor to pins 7 & 8
Dash lights to the Light Sockets

I had replaced my dash lights with LED lamps to I updated the lamps int he speedometer to match the LED color I used the the rest of the gages.

All that was left was to calibrate the speedo. I downloaded Ulysse Speedometer to my smart for reference. Then used the Manual Calibration method to get the speedometer to match the value shown on my phone. The end result was a stock looking electronic speedometer that is reliable and easy to read.