Very Special Opportunity

Back at the 2019 Barrett Jackson Auction at Scottsdale where I was able to dive into the three G-Wagons offered, get hands-on looks at each and in one case, speak to the seller. Let's begin with a surprise stand out. The orange 1987 240GD that is offered at no reserve on Friday's auction is an excellent example.

I met with Jeremy Sandler of Segal Motorcar Company who has several cars up for auction and he let me crawl all over the 240GD. This example appears to have started out as a W461 German Military Radio Wolf truck. As you would expect, it has a 24V electrical system with battery shutoff below the center dash. Like the Austrian Puch, the naturally aspirated 4-cylinder diesel engine has features that will allow the truck to operate in about 3 feet of water.

Jeremy told me the truck had been restored in Germany at some point then brought back to Canada. Whoever did the restoration did a wonderful job. The orange paint maintains the flat finish of the original military green and has been expertly applied. I found none of the usual signs of rust on any of the body panels. The suspension looks to have been removed and some parts powder coated and springs and shocks were both upgraded. With such a thorough restoration, I was a bit surprised the original metal fuel tank was not replaced with the upgraded plastic unit found in most modern G-Wagons because there are signs of patching. The rear skid plate that covers the fuel tank is also missing. The trim surrounding the upgraded headlights is ABS and not the original rubber type but look like new as does the rest of the exterior trim. The grill also looks to have been replaced with a newer unit but still maintains the original look.

The interior is a very nice upgrade while maintaining the truck's military bones. I like the way the orange theme was carried into the interior with piping and stitching. The front seats are comfortable and look great, all gauges look clean, all controls are in place and the rear jump seats are restored to a like-new condition. Looking under the mats there was no sign of repair or rust. I appreciated the decision to resist upholstery and use ABS panels on the doors to maintain the spartan feel of the truck. Also nice was to see proper size tires and original wheels. There are enough 80's G-Wagons with oversized wheels and tires and they actually perform better with the right size.

The engine compartment is very clean. Once again orange accents are found under the hood but only on hoses. The only visible upgrade was the new aluminum radiator. The padding under the hood is missing, but it was reinforced to support carrying loads on the hood using the straps. Underneath I found no evidence of fluids seeping from any of the differentials, transfer case, transmission or engine. I'm not familiar with the 240 but was surprised to see there was not a fuel return hose coming from the last injector to the fuel tank as is present with the 300. The rear hose was simply capped off.

It was a pleasure to encounter a well restored and preserved W461. While not strictly restored, this updated model reflects the military heritage of the original with a new theme. For anyone looking for a truck to run around an island, orchard, vineyard, or private ranch this would be a perfect way to get around with a nice level of style. And while I prefer collectors to drive their cars, this one would be right at home tucked away in a collection to be driven only once in a while.

After all was said and done this example brought $60,000 at auction. 

G's at Barrett Jackson Scottsdale

There is no limit to the hype surrounding what many auto enthusiasts believe to be the most anticipated auto auction. This week, we will experience the Barrett Jackson Scottsdale 2019 auction behind the scenes with first-hand interviews with owners and bidders.

This seems to be the year of the truck with a lot of activity around the Dodge Power Wagon and Broncos but because our focus is G-Wagons we will follow three particular auctions. The first to come to auction will be lot #987 1987 240GD Cabriolet then lot #1410  2014 G63 6x6 and finally  #1575.1 1996 Europa G. Lets take a quick look at each one. 

240GD Cabriolet

SWB G-Wagons are very popular, add the indestructible diesel engine and removable tops are a huge draw. The color combination on this G is very nice. While underpowered and not a great highway driver, this is a wonderful off-road truck and would be a great weekend driver. The builder did a very nice job with the interior. It will be interesting to see what this car brings at auction on Friday.

2014 G63 6x6

Barrett Jackson feels like this will end up fetching the big dollars because it is being auctioned on Saturday and one of the very few with a reserve. With only 607 indicated miles on this limited production truck I can understand why! Featuring 6 portal axels, 18" beadlock wheels, bi-turbo AMG 536 HP engine, impressive stance, and clearance that a 9-year-old child can walk under it is menacing. Featured prominently in the main tent, everyone that walks past this example stops, points, and shoots a photo. #crazymbpickup

1996 Europa G

This is my personal favorite. Almost impossible to get in the states, this no-frills G is a great daily driver and off-road warrior. Unlike our first two examples, this SWB has what I feel is the just the right amount of power. Not too much like the G63 and not too little like the 240G it is just right. Add tasteful interior that anyone would find comfortable without the US Spec frills and this is one of the great items that will close the week on Sunday. 

Stay tuned as we visit the floor, talk to the owners and follow the bidding on this weekend to see how healthy the market for the G's are in 2019. And while we are here, we will take a look at two other trends in the 4x4 market Broncos and Dodge Power Wagons. Stay tuned!

DIY Garage Makeover

Most of my friends know I collect cars so when they visit, inevitably they want to visit the garage and check out the cars. While I enjoyed working in my shop, there was a vast contrast between the well-maintained cars and the unfinished presentation of the building they called home. It was time for a garage makeover!

I'm pretty handy with a miter saw, nail gun and even sheetrock mud so I set out to develop a plan. Besides, all the cars are running great and I needed something to work on. 

Unfinished Garage

Our existing garage was a nice 24x24 foot space with 8' ceiling. The exterior looked nice enough, but the inside was simply not finished. Exposed 2x4" studs 16" on center with trusses overhead spaced 24" apart. The floor was a cracked unfinished concrete slab. There was no insulation making the interior impossibly hot in the Arizona summer. 

Insulation and sheetrock would be simple enough, but I wanted to make a nice space that was worthy of the 1978 Corvette Hotrod and my sweetheart's 1956 Thunderbird. 

The first step was to move all the electrical outlets higher on the wall to about 43". This would allow easy access to the outlets without having to climb behind tool chests or benches. I replaced the breakers with 20 AMP GFI type one for the left side and one for the right. I also mounted one outlet in the ceiling for each car just in case I wanted to hang a trickle charger above each car. I used 12/2 Romex with a ground wire and heavy-duty outlets.  

I also added a 30 AMP 220 V circuit to the outside of the long wall terminated in a weatherproof box. This would support a split air conditioning/heat pump system. 

Next was insulation and with only 2x4 studs and only 4" of space on the exterior walls, I considered foam for the increased R-value and amazing vapor barrier. I've used this in my house before with exceptional results, but at almost $3000 the price was just too high for the garage. I opted for Owens Corning pink insulation with a paper vapor barrier. Using a small compressor I attached an Arrow PT50 Pneumatic Staple Gun to quickly install the insulation. 

I wanted a durable surface that was attractive and also was looking to break up the wall. I landed on installing corrugated steel roof panels up to 36" then shiplap for the remainder of the wall. 

Corrugated Metal Wall Installation

Corrugated metal roofing is available at Home Depot from Gibraltar in 6-foot Galvanized Steel Roof Panel to minimize cutting -- one sheet would cover twice the space. I also found a nice way to finish the ends. I used 1/4" galvanized J-Trim that is usually used to finish the end of sheetrock as a way to provide a finishing touch to the corrugated metal. Since corrugated metal is designed for 24" roof trusses, and is only 29 gauge thick I opted to install 1/4" plywood on the 2x4 studs prior to screwing the roofing to the wall. Together with the 1" fasteners, the plywood provided the necessary support to keep the metal sheets from rattling. The entire metal installation process goes like this:

1. Install the 1/4" plywood
2. Install the baseboard leaving 1/2" space between floor and bottom of the base
3. Cut the corrugated metal sheet in half with Wiss Aviation Snips
4. Using a clutched power driver, screw the metal panels to the wall, making sure to hit the studs when possible. I used two rows of screws installing the bottom row first and put the top row in only after installing the J-trim. Make sure to overlap the panels.
5. Overlap more or less to adjust the length and minimize the need to cut with the bends. 
6. Trim the top and any rough edges with the J-Trim. No need to use screws to fasten the J-Trim because the first shiplap board will hold it in place. 

Starting at the top of the J-Trim, install the first piece of Shiplap using a miter saw to trim and level to make sure it is straight. Some may want to start with a piece of trim, but I thought the J-Trim looked clean and liked seeing the top edge of the J-trim. I used a nail gun with 16 gauge finish nails to nail the shiplap directly to the studs. Because we are running the boards across the studs there is I did not feel the need to install strips because the studs are visible. If you are installing shiplap vertically or over sheetrock, strips are a great idea.

Shiplap is usually rough cut and inconsistent, so a gap between planks will provide that old barn siding look. I used the lip of carpenter's square to provide a consistent space between planks. Sliding the square from side to side while holding a level at the top edge provided an easy way to make sure the planks are square.

Hint: consider doing a little planning for the size of the gap. Trimming the top plank with a table saw will be necessary and adjusting the gap will eliminate a strange size top plank and could minimize trimming.

Continue the shiplap installation but leave a gap of a couple of boards until the sheetrock has been installed on the ceiling. Consider using trim pieces to clean up the corners and top as the wood will expand and contract over time.

All that remains for my project is to determine the type of flooring to put in the garage and install the climate control system, but so far the garage is much more comfortable and I'm not ashamed to take my friends to see our cars.

The Best Dystopian Truck - Into the Badlands

Part of the fun of owning an iconic vehicle is taking notice when it appears in film and TV. One of my favorite G-Sightings was in the first season of The Man in the High Castle. The producers selected the G-Wagen as the military truck in an alternate post-WWII timeline where the Japanese and German prevailed. A G-Class variant also appeared in the short-lived TV NBC series, Blood and Oil driven by Don Johnson's character Harlan "Hap" Briggs.

Ally Ioannides on Set

One of the biggest surprises was when I was watching my daughter in her show Into the Badlands and saw the G-Wagon used in the popular dystopic marshall arts drama. How perfect, in a land without computers, guns and only the most basic of technology remains, the good old 80's G will thrive.

My daughter invited me and my sweetheart to visit the set during the shooting of season 3 and as luck would have it, we were able to visit the set of the Window's fort. Behind the fort was a collection of trucks that were used for the shoot. Among them - a couple of W641 former military G-Wagons.

I was shooting black and white film loaded in a Contax G2 Camera so the photos here lack color but it only seems to accentuate the miserable conditions on set. Why anyone would want to work in this rainy, muddy, cold and wet environment is beyond me. But once again the truck seemed perfectly at home in such an inhospitable environment.

So for those of us who have the early G-Wagons that, once started, require no electricity and can run on vegetable oil, we know that producers looking for the perfect truck for the dystopic post-apocalyptic world would do well to pick the iconic G-Wagon.

On the Set of Into the Badlands

New or Old

The Mercedes Gelandewagen has been on the road, and off, since 1979.  Even with the "makeover" in 2019, the truck maintains it's iconic rugged look and exceptional visibility. While European drivers have been enjoying G-Wagons for years, it was not until 2002, when Mercedes-Benz started selling the truck in the US, could you run down to your MB dealer in the states and buy one.

Now with the availability to import cars over 25 years old, including the German and Austrian military surplus competing with the older US G-Class models are available on the 2nd hand market, the decision for those who want a G can be complicated. The basic question becomes: "Do I get an older Euro import or North American Spec (NOS)  G?" As the owner of several of each, I'm going to give you my perspective.

I have owned 3 G's and driven about 15 different versions from a 1985 300G with a turbo upgrade to the AMG G55, and can tell you the experience is more the same than different. From 1979 through 2018, all Gelandewagens feature dual solid axels, ladder on frame construction, coil suspension and 4x4 capability. All of this topped off with a tall, boxy interior with huge windows. As big as the truck looks, it is pretty narrow and the interior can be cozy in the back seat. Think of all G-Wagons as a heavy, 4x4 truck only narrower and shorter. It may be the best compact truck ever produced.

The W460/W461

The W460 and military W461 are very similar in style, build and capability. Having owned both, I can say that there is almost no difference in driving W640 from the 80's and just about all of the W461s. They are excellent off road with a soft easy going way about them. They are comfortable in rough terrain and extremely capable. While you can get variants in gas and diesel with automatic or standard transmissions, I personally prefer the standard diesel versions with the 3L inline 5 engine. Some feel that the late 80's and early 90's were a golden era of Mercedes engines with standouts like the DOHC 2.8, the 3.0 Diesel and the 3.0 straight 6 found in the 300E. All of these engines found their way into early G's. I know some off-road enthusiasts prefer automatic transmissions, but the limited horsepower and high RPM of the MB diesel make the manual a must for road driving. That being said the 300GE, while very rare in the US, is a reliable road truck with very good power and very good high-speed cruising capability.

In normal drive mode, these trucks are rear-wheel drive. It is easy to engage 4-wheel drive while moving simply by shifting the transfer case. In 4 wheel drive mode, the front and back axles are locked together. This is good for off-road, but not so good for road driving. When braking at highway speeds, it is necessary to allow the front breaks to do most of the stopping. Locking the front axes to the rear defeats the proper distribution of breaking and can cause fishtailing. This can be dangerous in snow and wet conditions especially at high speeds.

Because the truck is heavy, you won't see much in acceleration or top speed. Mountain highway driving can be frustrating, however, long drives on level ground will allow you to cruise at 65 MPH even without overdrive.

Off-road is where the truck is amazing. With the ability to lock the front and rear axles from the inside at any time is really nice. I don't know that I have ever been able to get this truck stuck. It does a very good job of keeping all four wheels on the ground and can cross some pretty deep water. I've even towed a trailer and while not fast, the OM614 inline 5 has plenty of torque.

Pros: Great torque, excellent off-road capability, rear and forward locking axels on most models, no computers, the awesome OM617 on the 300GD will run forever, easy to get parts, low purchase price, relatively good fuel economy and easy to fix. Basically your perfect zombie apocalypse vehicle.

Cons: Spartan interior, prone to body rust, poor acceleration, limited top speed, loud on the road, spongy ride that works well off-road, not good on the highway in snow or rain.

Summary: While not the best as a daily driver, if you are looking for a special purpose off-road vehicle, hunting car or weekend fun truck, I found the W461 to be a far better experience than a Jeep Wrangler and much more comfortable off-road. If you want a W640, consider one of the well maintained former military trucks. Military trucks often have low miles/kilometers and are very well maintained compared to the civilian versions. If you are thinking of getting a W640 and doing an engine swap for more power, consider simply getting a newer US Spec truck and enjoy.

NOS G-Class

For the US market, Mercedes-Benz took the G-Wagon truck and turned it into a family urban assault vehicle. Fortunately, unlike the GM Hummer that was made to look like a Humvee on a pickup truck chassis, the G-Class is actually made alongside the military version with the same frame and body. All of the G-Class sold in the US since 2005 share some common traits. They all have V8 engines, automatic transmissions, some degree of an upgraded interior, creature comforts and they have been modified for road use. While still very capable off-road most are shipped with wheels and tires best suited the highway. 

Road driving is very nice although truck-like. If you can afford the fuel, they work very well for a daily driver. They keep the spongy soft ride except for the AMG versions that are outfitted with stiffer suspension for a better road handling. In our household, the stock G55 became a favorite for grocery shopping because of the ability to park it in small spaces and accessibility of the cargo area. All G-Class trucks have good powerplants and the AMG versions accelerate crazy fast for a truck. A friend of mine calls my G55 Saque because he says it moves really well for a large heavy truck. We also have an F150 with the EcoBoost engine and in the mid 400hp range that is crazy quick but feels HUGE next to the G55. I do wish the G gas tank was larger because on long road trips, with a fuel economy running around 12 MPG, I have to stop frequently for fuel. 

The newer trucks also feature the awesome Mercedes-Benz interior experience. Decent stereo, hands-free Bluetooth, cruise control, heated/cooled leather seats, lots of airbags, mostly quiet ride at lower speeds, sunroof, dual mode climate control, turn lights and even a backup camera make the truck almost refined. Heck, it is almost a nice date car. 

Off-road, the car is crazy capable but you will find the AMG versions a little stiff. Also, AMG decided to lower the truck 2" to improve cornering on the road. This allows the truck to actually perform a little better on the road. Unfortunately, it means you have to be careful about driving off-road. The clearance is still more than enough to handle most situations and the engine is plenty powerful, but you should at least fit the truck better off-road tires and a modest 2" lift if you plan to take the car on many adventures.

Unlike the older G-Wagons, the newer models feature all-wheel drive as a default driving mode rather than rear-wheel. This combined with the ABS braking is a huge plus in the snow and road driving. With electronic locking differentials, the driver is prevented from engaging 4-wheel drive mode unless the transfer is set to low. That means on any truck after 2005 the transfer case needs to be set to low to lock the transfer case, front or rear axels unless and then only in a particular order. Transfer case first, then back axel, and only then the front. The nice thing is that as soon as you lock the transfer case, the computer and ABS is disengaged and you can drive this like a normal truck. OLD SCHOOL BABY!

If you plan to drive off-road often, get some Hutchenson beadlocks, off-road tires, put in some portal axels and you will have one of the most bad-ass and most capable off-road setups available. Can you say four-by-four-squared?

Pros: Nice around town, good daily driver, solid feel, great driving experience, capable off-road, lots of power, amazing in the snow, lots of visibility, very reliable, crazy good engineering and rust-resistant body. Honestly, they are fun to drive.

Cons: Horrible fuel economy, stiff for off-road, side pipes not really practical, people assume you are a jerk.

Summary: Most people who purchased the G-Class trucks, used them as a second car and almost never took them off road. You can find some low mileage, accident-free examples that can make this a compelling option. If you are looking for an off-road setup get the G500 or G600 put some beadlocks, upgrade the shocks. some off-road tires and GO. Think of all those people who get Wranglers and drop an LS engine in and upgrade the suspension. Your G-Glass will probably get similar performance, be a great daily driver and ultimately cost less that an extreme Wrangler mod.

The Answer is?

It really depends on what you are looking for. I've never had anyone stop me when driving my G55 and say, "cool truck" but the in the 300GD I get comments all the time, mostly "What is that?" So if you are looking for the cool factor, go vintage for sure. If you are looking for a nice driving experience and are planning to have it as a daily driver, get a newer G-Class. If driving often in the snow and ice, get a newer one with AWD standard and ABS breaks. Both new and old will serve you well off-road as long as you upgrade the tires on the G-Glass and if getting the AMG version consider lifting it a couple of inches and get some real off-road wheels/tires for off-road use.

That being said, I wish MB would sell the BluTec, PUR of Professional versions in the US. That would be my first choice!

Gwagon Speedometer Upgrade

Like many of us, the odometer on the original VDO speedometer was shot. It would sometimes work, sometimes stick and often just sit there. for older cars, this may not be an issue, but I wanted to know simple things like, how far I traveled and when to change the oil. While I was lucky to have an MPH speedo, many of the imported G's from the 80's, feature Kilometer measurements. Here is a quick and easy solution for many of us.

Original VDO Speedometer

For the purest, it would be best to send your speedo off for repair. There are many good resources that repair classic speedometers and the original VDO unit is very nice. In my case, I wanted an upgrade.

A quick search of available VDO gages and you will find nice digital VDO gauge that will fit directly in the existing cluster. I settled on a VDO Vision Black 85 MPH/130 KpH Speedo (12/24V) - 3 3/8" - Vision Black model number 437-152. The bonus is that for those of us who have 24v G's this gauge will work!

For those of you who think a 120 MPH gage is better, think about it for a second. These trucks rarely go over 70 much less 85.

 I ordered the sender and the gauge from eGuages.com. The bonus is the new speedo is only about $130!

Existing Cruise Control Sensor

The old gage worked by a spinning cable that comes from the transfer case to the back of the old speedo. The new unit, however, is 100% electronic. An electronic pulse is required to measure the speed of the car. The speed can be picked up by a pulse coming from any part of the drivetrain after the transmission.

It is very easy to access the cluster. Two screws one on each side then the back cover comes off. Simply unscrew the cable, remove the lights and you push the old speedo out of the front of the cluster. then I took the rubber surround from the old speedo and put it on the new one and slid it in.

The wiring instructions come with the new speedo, the only strange thing is the new speedo does not have a blinker light. That is not a big deal, I just wired the blinker indicator to the one on the sash luster and I was all good.

Then came the hard part. Getting some sort of speed signal to the new speedo. Let's just say I found it impossible to find an adaptor that would fit the pulse generator to the existing speedometer cable or transfer case.  I was lucky because when I followed the old speedometer cable I found an electronic sensor connected to the cable under the dash. At one point my G must have been equipped with cruise control, so I wired the connectors to the new speedometer and while it did not register the correct speed, it did work.

The wiring was pretty simple. as follows:

12V constant to Pin 4
Ground to Pin 3

New Speedometer

Existing Sensor to pins 7 & 8
Dash lights to the Light Sockets

I had replaced my dash lights with LED lamps to I updated the lamps int he speedometer to match the LED color I used the the rest of the gages.

All that was left was to calibrate the speedo. I downloaded Ulysse Speedometer to my smart for reference. Then used the Manual Calibration method to get the speedometer to match the value shown on my phone. The end result was a stock looking electronic speedometer that is reliable and easy to read.

These Go to 24!

In Spinal Tap, Nigel Tufnel is always bragging about his amplifiers "These go to 11!" We all know that the markings on the knob have no effect on the actual ability of the amp to put out high sound pressure levels (SPL) but it does give Nigle bragging rights and maybe helps him feel better on stage.

Some of us with military G's have similar distinctions because the old military G-Wagons were outfitted for radio gear and featured 24V power. Unlike their British cousins that have 24V just for the radio gear and 12V for the truck, the G-Wagons feature a 24V throughout. This means we have 24V starters, blowers, lights, alternators, wipers, and glow plugs. I've owned both 12V and 24V 300GD wagons and while the 24V is kind of a pain to maintain, it does have some advantages.

First let's talk about the challenges.

• If you leave your lights on and the batteries drain, you will need two cars or two batteries to jump-start the truck. (I keep two sets of jumper cables in my car.)
• When replacing the battery, you will need two rather than one.
• Just about every electrical part from the light bulbs to the starter are harder to source and expensive to replace.
• There are a limited number of 24V entertainment options. 
• You will need a to charge your batteries one at a time if using a wall charger. 

Now the advantages.

• The 24V starter seems to be better at turning over the engine. 
• I've always been able to start the car even when it super cold, even when it below zero fahrenheit. Do the glow plugs work better, I'm not sure. 
• I had two batteries wired in parallel with a quick disconnect relay in a 12V 300GD so it always had current to spare, but the dual 12V batteries in the 24V G wired in series seem to perform better. 

The electrical system in the 300GD is very simple. That is why many of us like it so much. Once started, an OM617 engine does not even need electricity to operate. There are no computers, no fancy electronics, and no ignition system. In fact, a vacuum system is used to turn the engine off. So having a 24V 300GD is really not a big issue. You would think that having a 24V car and getting accessories is a big deal, but when you think of all the 24V tractors and trucks on the market, it is really not that big of a deal.

Need a 24V phone charger? No problem. Need a radio? Simply get a 24V tractor radio. There are even options with Bluetooth and USB interfaces. Want to upgrade to LED headlights? Many LED kits support 24V. Here are some resources to help.

Dash Lights

Dash lights seem to go out on just about every G-Wagon. While I have not been able to find a good 24V LED replacement, I was able to find 3rd party replacements. CCIYU T5 LED Bulbs come in three colors red, green, and LED blue, and fit right into the back of any of the instruments for illumination or indicators on your G. They are a great value and look better than the factory originals. 

24V Tunes

A lot of tractors have 24v systems so there are some tractor options, but I found an even better solution. VDO actually makes a great-looking Radio, with USB, Bluetooth, USB MP3 and it is 24V. Just do an online search for the VDO TR723UB-BU, It can be easily wired to come on when you turn on your truck, and even has illumination that works with your dash lights. It features some EQ options nas a nice display and has 4x15W output so it has plenty of power. The best part is the guages in the G-Wagons are VDO so it matches. 

LED Headlights

Simply look for any H4 headlight that supports 24V. I found the Gppower 80w 6400LM car Cree Led Headlights bulbs 12-24V and they work great. They are not any brighter than 12V LED options but they are WAY better than the standard halogen bulbs and use a LOT less current. 

I've heard some 24V G owners converting their trucks back to 12V. It would not be that difficult but after owning a 24V version, I would say the advantages are way better than the inconveniences. Sure you can probably update the entire truck to 12V for the price of a 24V alternator and heater blower, I'll keep mine at 24V thank you. Because while my 24V 300GD does not run any faster than a standard 12V version, Like Nigel, I do feel superior to everyone else because let's face it, "This One Goes to 24!"

My Other Car is a G-Wagon

The 300GD is a great car to drive around town, and even better when there is a need to check out the back country here at Rocky Point Preserve, but for a trip down to the valley or a longer road trip, the OM617 can be a little loud, cold and underpowered.

I just can't get a new car and was in need of something that can get back to the preserve up Tollgate Canyon in the winter. For a while I was driving a Jeep Wrangler, but it just did not feel right. Years ago I owned a Jeep Cherokee, the old XJ version that was made from 1984-2001. It was the first Jeep to feature unibody construction and had the most awesome 4.0L fuel injected inline 6. In my mind, the early Jeep Cherokee bridged the gap between the G-Wagon and other early capable 4x4s and the new breed of family SUVs. The thing is, the Jeep XJ still has the drivetrain, engine and capabilities of a great 4x4.

According the the Wikipedia entry:

Automotive journalist Robert Cumberford, writing for Automobile, called the Jeep XJ one of the 20 greatest cars of all time — for its design, and "possibly the best SUV shape of all time, it is the paradigmatic model to which other designers have since aspired". The XJ was also selected in 2011 as one of "10 cars that refuse to die" by Kiplinger.

Since so many were produced and because of reliability of the 4.0L engine, there are a bunch of these around and they can be had for such a low price that many feel them to be a disposable 4x4. I decided to start looking for one to be my next 4x4 project car. I was lucky enough to find a 2001 accident free automatic with just over 100K miles that drove well but needed some TLC. $2500 and I had my next Jeep XJ.

First I gave it a quick 3" lift, replace all the springs, put in new bushings, new steering damper, had all the fluids flushed and replaced, replaced the failed thermostat, breaks and replaced the radiator and hoses. The car ran pretty good but it looked like hell. There was surface rust and the interior was in pretty bad shape. Once the mechanicals were sorted out, it was time to focus on the body.

I decided to try out the newest local body shop Cascade Collision and started to come up with a plan. We would sand blast the car, cover it with epoxy, get it straight, prime it and repaint it... YELLOW. I took the car home to remove the interior and get it ready for the shop. The one thing I was most worried about were the floor pans. But GREAT NEWS, there was absolutely no signs of rust under the carpet or anywhere on the interior.

Once back at the body shop and sand blasted a quick look over showed just a couple of minor spots that needed attention. The body was very serviceable.  The guys at the shop quickly started pulling the car apart and working on the body, replacing the front door hinges and getting it ready for primer.

It took the shop almost 3 months because winter is fender bender season and the shop got very busy, but finally we got some color on the car and it looks great.

Pulling apart the car for painting allowed us to make sure it would look more like a full restoration rather than a respray. Once the car is together, it will be very difficult to figure out the car was ever blue. More importantly, there will be almost no place water and salt can penetrate and cause rust. 

While at the shop, I had cascade assemble and install the Smittybilt XRC front and rear bumpers, the rock sliders and application of the black matching coating along the bottom of the body.

Once I picked up the car, it was time to rebuild the interior. Over the next two weeks I installed new carpeting, seats, dynaliner, stereo, speakers and headlights. I worked with my little guy, Delynger to get the winch installed and add a bull bar. I also ordered new wheels and worked with Discount Tire to fit serious all terrain tires. I also added a new larger throttle body, throttle spacer and Airaid filter system. I feel like I'm getting about 10% more HP out of the 4.0 L inline 6.

Now my "Yellow Jacket" is mostly complete (are they ever really complete?), it is be ready for a sticker on the bumper... "My Other Car is a G-Wagon"

2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ At Rocky Point Preserve, Park City UT

OM617 - Every Engine Needs This

Readers to this blog know that I have had a couple of OM617 engines both turbo and naturally aspirated. I love these engines! While they don't put out much in the way of power, they are extremely reliable, easy to work on and virtually bullet proof.

If you have one, here are four simple things you should do:

1. Keep the fuel filters clean. 

When I got "The Turtle" it was way underpowered and seemed to lose power on even the smallest hill. This is common for the little 3L diesel, but it just felt starved. Replacing both the primary and main fuel filters was an instant cure. Remember older cars may have small flakes of stuff in the fuel tank so changing at least the primary filter often is a good idea. This is easy to do and does not cost much.

2. Clean Prechambers

Prechamber Reamer

Removing the glow plugs and reaming the prechambers is kind of a pain, but a couple hours under the hood and you will see a huge performance in cold starts and much smoother running engine.

3. Adjust those Valves

These engines don't self-adjust like newer engines do. I've gotten into the habit of taking my trucks into a good independent local Mercedes shop and having them adjust the valves couple of years. You could do it yourself but my shop does not charge that much. The engine sounds better, starts better, runs smoother and gets better gas mileage.

4. Diesel Purge

Running some diesel purge through your engine, especially high mileage ones, will clean that carbon from the fuel system, help keep the prechambers clean and restore performance. When you first get your OM617 powered car, run two cans through it and do a single can purge again every year thereafter. Remember to change your fuel filter after the purge. There will be TONS of gunk freed up during the process. CLICK HERE for detailed instructions on how to diesel purge an OM617.

5. ALDA on the OM617a Turbo

If you have an OM617, make sure the ALDA is clean and working. You can even look at doing an adjustment. CLICK HERE for instructions and more info.

I bet the previous owners of the trucks I've purchased would have never sold them if they performed these simple four steps on their OM617 power plants. Together, these simple maintenance tips will make you fall in love with your 300 again. 

The Turtle - W641 Puch 300GD

I had to sell the W460 featured in this blog because I had too many cars here and needed some quick cash. I listed it for what I considered a fair price with 3 other cars and got a ton of calls for the 300GD - the other cars, not so much. Short story, in 24 hours the 300GD Turbo was sold.

I missed driving my 300GD Turbo SWB so much that it was not long before the bug hit me, and I started looking online, not really to buy but just to look and see what was out there. After a while, I thought it would be cool to find a mid-1990's example and transplant an OM 606.964 ERE or OM 606.962 ERE 6 cylinder turbocharged diesel with a 5-speed. That sounds cool, right?

Just for fun I started going out and test driving some G-Wagons for sale. Not that I was going to buy anything but just to do research for a future purchase. I drove a 1991 300E, a 2005 Supercharged G500 AMG and a few other less memorable G-Wagons. By the way, the supercharged AMG is sick fast. Something just felt wrong going 0-60 in 5.4 seconds in something that felt like a tank. The 300GE was surprisingly quick and responsive. Fun times!

Then it happened, somebody drove a 1990 W461, Puch Austrian Military 300GD into town and was selling it. The owner was on vacation, but with the owner's permission my friend and I drove over to look it over.

The truck was soo cool. It was a 300GD, LWB, Cabrio, 4-speed manual with a naturally aspirated OM614. On top of that, it had jump seats for eight bringing the total to 10 passengers including the driver! We tried to start it but it was DEAD! The issue was the 24v electrical system could not be simply jump-started with one car.

We decided to drive our Jeeps over and use two cars to jump-start the beast. It cranked up and was very rough. My immediate thinking was it needed glow plug work or the diesel pre-chambers had carbon build up because after it warmed up, it drove pretty well.

The front end exhibited no noise, there were a few small rust bubbles at the bottom of the wheel wells and on the windshield, an engine oil leak, and seepage from the front differential and the transfer case. All pretty normal stuff. The soft top was in pretty good shape, some clouding, and one cracked window but all was very serviceable. The front headlights and the heater blower did not work.

So in a moment of weakness, I made an offer and bought it. The engine leak turned out to be a loose oil drain plug, a quick reaming of the prechambers and diesel purge solved the rough start issue. Headlights turned out to be blown low beam bulbs and as it turns out it even holds a charge. This could be a daily driver!

My current plans are to give it a good once over mechanically and have the minor rust issues resolved before they get out of control. Driving it around I get a lot of: "What is that?" and "Where did you get that?" and "Can I get a photo?" I have not decided what to do long-term, but you will hear about it here. How does it drive? Well.. lets just say it is a lot more spartan and just bit slower than the 2005 AMG! Can you say "Ari Safari?"