Tibus Beadlock Wheels

Do you ever get something stuck in your mind and it just worms around until you have to give in? It happens to me all the time. I got it in my mind that my G55 should be less of a road machine and more of an offroad monster. I've seen a couple of 4x4 squared G-Class trucks and, while I never drove one, that was the direction I wanted to go.

As part of the process, I got my mind sent on bead lock wheels. Even though I most likely would not be airing them down often, it was in my head, so it had to happen. Most of us know that the 4x4 squared uses Hutchinson Wheels but since I was going with Tibus Portal Axels, it made sense to go with the Tibus Portal Axels. Right? Wrong!

I'll cut to the chase here and say the wheels are working well, ride well, hold pressure, and look great but the road was a long and bumpy one -- costly too. Honestly, I wish I had purchased a set of four 18" Hutchinson wheels that, at the time of this writing go for about $4,000 a set. 

When I had my G55 converted to a G55 4x4 squared, I purchased a set of four Tibus 18" bead lock wheels for about $5,000. From the moment I got them I had trouble. They were not balanced properly and the TPMS sensors came unglued from the liner as were rattling around inside. Since the work was done at GwagenParts in California, I took the truck to a local 4x4 called the shop to get them balanced and the TPMS properly mounted. Most of my problems began here. 

Every time you pull the wheels apart, the o-rings need to be replaced. Tibus does not publish the o-ring specs so I sent a note to Tibus and they shipped me new o-rings.  It takes a couple of weeks for them to be shipped from Germany at a cost of about $200. Hint #1: keep extra o-rings handy. 

Corrosion of Tibus Wheel

XTC Motorsports did a pretty poor job installing the TPMS bands, putting the wheels back together, and balancing them. Once again they were not balanced and the tires leaked air. 

Bill Rader told me about issues Tibus was having with the liners and offered to get me new Hutchinson liners (yes they fit) clean up the wheels and get them balanced. $3,500 later they work great. Although, I will say the fit and finish of some of the parts on the Tibus don't hold up well on the salty roads in Utah. 

The wheels spent about 8 months at Bill's place and luckily I have a second set of AMG wheels and tires so I was able to keep my car on the road. The first thing Bill noticed was that when his team pulled the wheels apart and found a bunch of corrosion and several of the studs were cross-threaded.

Stripped Stud

I had to order o-rings again and this time studs from Tibus. Most of the delay with having the wheels fixed was no fault of Bill Rader's team but was tied up with getting the parts from Tibus. Bill and his team got the wheels cleaned up, and replaced the lock nuts with Hutchinson nuts, and the old defective liners with new Hutchinson 18" Liners.

Two years later, I'm finally happy with the wheels. They ride smoothly at highway speeds, keep pressure and the truck handles well. I will say that after investing almost $9,000 in the wheels, I wish I had purchased the Hutchinson wheels and saved myself $5,000 in maintenance and a lot of time. 

So if you get it into your head that bead lock wheels are in your future, lean on my experience and go with Hutchinson. 

W461/W460 Engine Swap

I've been dabbling in G-Class cars since 2014 when I purchased my 1987 300GD SWB. I loved that truck. It already had an upgraded OM617A turbo so I set out to make it a nice daily driver with a fresh interior, heated seats, and a killer stereo. I learned a lot about G-Wagons and caught the bug big time. 

In 2016 I found an Austrian Military Puch-G for sale here in town. My friend and I took it for a quick test drive and fell in love with the spartan nature. Yes, it needed TLC and it was slow but in time I know it would be amazing. Now it is finally as done as any car can be and I gotta tell you - I LOVE IT and find myself driving it more than my G55.

I want to focus on the powertrain choice I made. I'm no stranger to engine swaps, planting a V8 302 in a 1972 Ford Pinto (insert fire joke here) and an LS3 in a 1978 Corvette both with very good results. The LS3 is an exceptional engine, has a great support community for swaps, and once sorted is powerful and reliable. I must admit, I was tempted to drop an LS into my G. 

I've seen a lot of early G's get the OM606 engine swapped with a 5-speed transmission. This is a very popular option in Europe, and I've seen some very nice examples make their way to the states. All that being said, I would like to make a strong case for the OM617A engine and Getrag 5-Speed setup.

The early W460/W461 had several engine options that all shared common characteristics: exceptional reliability and a lack of power. Even the wonderful 2.8 DOHC M103 featured in the iconic R107 280SL was detuned somewhat when offered in the 280GE. Anyone who has driven a G-Wagon from the '80s will tell you, they are exceptional off-road and all underpowered!

I've had two G's with the OM617 engine and can tell you, they are amazing engines. Good torque, bulletproof, and super easy to work on. The OM617 has an exceptional reputation bordering on a cult following. Like any powerplant for the early G-Class, the 3.0L 5-cylinder OM617 with 80hp simply did not have enough power for highway driving and without overdrive, top speeds on the early G-Wagons was horrible.

The thing is, when the OM617A was introduced, Mercedes-Benz added a turbo and in early trials was able to squeeze as much as 227hp out of the powerplant -- even more power than a stock OM606. Now that much boost will shorten the life of an engine, but one can get respectable performance and long engine life from an OM617a when coupled with a high-performance injector pump. 

To me, the OM617a with Getrag 5-Speed makes the most sense to me for the following reasons:

• OM617a is an easy drop-in for most G-Wagons
• The OM617A is close to the experience provided with the OM617 with more power
• The Getrag 5-Speed was offered on some G-Wagons
• Performance and drivability are exceptional

Let's start with the platform. It is easiest to drop an OM617A into a 300GD because the fuel system, ignition, gauges, and glow plug power are already in place. The next easiest platforms to upgrade are the other diesel G's, and finally, the most difficult would be the petrol versions. 

If starting with the 300GD, don't try and slap a turbo on the original OM617 because the engine was not designed for the boost. You could, however, drop in a high-performance M-Style Injection Pump by Bosch and get 10-15% more performance and call it a day, but why stop there? The high-performance pump with the OM617a turbo engine will upgrade your rig to well over 150hp and provide the best performance. If you already have an OM617a in any car, the high-performance Bosh Injection Pump for the Turbo engine can provide 50-60 additional horsepower. 

You will need to find an OM617a from a donor car or an engine rebuilder. Most rebuilders will let you use your old OM617 as a core credit. 

Once the engine is sorted you will have the acceleration and power you need for driving around town, but the top-end speed will still be limited by the redline of the engine. I've found that anything over 100 kph or 65 mph requires overdrive. That is where the Getrag or 711 transmission comes in. Do your research because the 711.110 civilian and 711.116 military versions have a top-end 1:1 ratio and do not provide overdrive. For increased top-end, you really want a 711.113 civilian or 711.117 transmission military with overdrive. 

These Getrag 5-speed overdrive transmissions are VERY hard to find. If you are looking for one, you are in luck because most folks are spending big bucks and upgrading older G's to OM606 and those modern engines won't really work with the 711.117. I was lucky to find a company in Germany that does swaps that is more than happy to sell old 711.117 transmissions and for a few hundred dollars was able to find one. 

Be prepared for some extras. Most likely you will need a new clutch, flywheel, motor mounts, and shaft between the transmission and transfer case. This is a great time to get some new glow plugs. The OM617a also runs hotter so you will want to take this opportunity to recore your radiator or get a new high-performance one. Also, some plumbing for the air intake will be necessary. 

Resources:

OM617 Performance Parts Including High-Performance Fuel Injection Pumps
OM617a Used Engine
Basic Rebuilt OM617a Engine 
High-Performance Rebuild OM617a Engine

Rust Bucket Update

As people started driving again, my local body shop experienced a dramatic uptick in requests for fender bender repairs. My 300G was relegated to the important job of collecting dust for two months. Finally, they started working on it again and my Puch-G has been primed and painted with a brand new military green coat of paint. 

They have started putting it together again and have found some of the trim pieces need to be replaced so the shop asked me to source them. The parts included the driver's side rocker panel, front turn signals, rear license plate illumination, and some wolf door panels. I placed a quick order with Expedition Imports and luckily everything was in stock and has been shipped. 

Once the assembly is complete, the shop will apply the wax undercoating to keep the body protected from rust and I'll be able to take my Puch-G to G-Amboree 2020 in Las Vegas to run with all the tricked out Gs.

G55 AMG 4x4 Squared

I know, there was never a 2011 AMG G55 4x4 Squared, but it would be cool right? In February of 2018, I found a low mileage G55 at the local Mercedes-Benz dealership.  I had driven a supercharged 5.0L Hand-Build V8 G-Class before and was blown away by how the supercharged powerplant propelled the 3-ton truck down the highway.

For some reason, 500HP seems to be a sweet spot for me. Just enough power to make your gut have that WOW feeling, but not so much that you lose control. I've got a Saleen Mustang, a 2020 Corvette C8, and an LS-powered 1978 Corvette all with about 500 HP. The naturally aspirated hot cammed 6.2L LS mated with a close-ratio manual 5-speed is a thrill to drive. The supercharged 4.6L in the Mustang sounds amazing and the C8 takes off like a rocket. I know turbos are all the rage and the current twin-turbo setups are amazing, but there is something so smooth about the power curve on a supercharger that comes close to the feel of a naturally aspirated engine. But I digress...

The G55 is a blast to drive but it was set up for highway use. To me, the G-Class was designed to be driven off-road, and turning it into an urban cruiser just did not feel right. So with power to spare, I decided to turn this G55 into the truck it was meant to be.

The build includes Tibus Portal Axels, Tibus 18" Bead-Lock Wheels, Nitto Ridge Grappler tires, King Shocks, Letech Roof Rack, and a front-mounted Smittybuilt Winch. Customizing any car comes with some give and take. The positives were improved ground clearance and better off-road capability will come with some negatives like decreased highway performance. Some I did not know about. In the coming weeks, I'll provide detailed reviews on each of the upgrades, for now here is the Reader's Digest version:

Tibus Portal Axels: I like the added ground clearance and wider stance, but it came at the cost of less crispness in handling. Off-road the added clearance is AMAZING. It is almost like you don't have to pick your line, just drive. One thing that kind of bothers me is a slight rocking when stopping. Additionally, there is a gear reduction that makes the speedometer read about 10% fast. Nobody can tell me how to adjust the computer to compensate, but I'm thinking a 37" tire would take care of the problem. I'm not super impressed with the installation from my builder as they seem to seep transmission fluid.


Tibus Bead-Lock Wheels: Short answer, I don't like them much. Two reasons, they are HEAVY and impossible to balance. Getting the TMPS to work is also a challenge and they are difficult to get airtight. They are nice to air down but honestly, you can air down somewhat with stock wheels and be OK. After about two months with shaking every time I got up to 70 MHP, I replaced them with a 20" AMG wheel and I'm much happier. The AMG setup works well enough off-road and is great on the highway. Now I can get up to high speeds again and have a smooth ride.

King Shocks: Love these. Having a shock that is adjustable is so nice. Yes, it would be great to be able to adjust the ride from inside the car like the 4x4 squared, but just turn the knob on each shock and I can go from a stiff highway setup to a soft off-road set up in about 30 seconds. With the external reservoir, they seem to hold up under punishing use.

Ritto Ridge Grapplers: Exceptional off-road tires, horrible in the snow. I've used the Ridge Grappler in mud, sand, rocks, climbing "waterfalls" and more. They are even fairly good at highway speeds. Not too loud and handling is good. My problem is I live when it snows, a lot. They are on the verge of being useless in the snow. The Continental Terrain Contact is a first-rate SUV tire and works great on the road. So I've got the Tibus wheels setup with the Ridge Grapplers standing by when I need some off-road fun.

Smittybilt Wench: I know this is not a big name brand wench, but the Smittybilt 97510 X 2O Waterproof Winch performs very well! I've pulled everything from a Jeep to a G-Class to a Dodge 3500 HD with a trailer out of stuck situations with no trouble at all. As heavy as the G55 is it makes a great truck to wench from. I LOVE the wireless remote control. For the G55 I used a Thor wench mount to simply mount the wench to the existing Bumper.

Roof Rack: The Letech Austrian-made rack that comes on the PUR and Professional G-Glass sold in Europe. I like the look of the rack, the build is amazing and it is very functional, however, there is a ringing sound within I close any door and there is an increase in wind noise. Also with top mound antennas for satellite radio, there is a reduction in reception quality. Oh - the sunroof is now useless unless you want to look at the bottom side of the rack. I suppose I could remove the front sheet metal for a nicer view. It is very flat on top, you can basically walk on the top of the truck and the tie-down points are generous. I love the rack, but at almost $7000 it is pricey! I suggest purchasing from Bill Rader out of Las Vegas.

I'll start working on some detailed reviews on each of the mods and provide more information and hopefully allow anyone wanting to trick out their truck some first-hand experiences. Feel free to ask questions at any time.

Rust Bucket

Puch-G Without Fender, Grill, and Bumper

The early W640 G-Wagons are prone to rust. Starting in the early '90s the factory started doing a much better job with rust prevention of the body and frame but those of us with early models must use wax behind the body panels to fend off the ravages of rust.  Even then, after years of water and for trucks in snowy environments, road salt will take a toll on the bodies.

My truck was starting to show some signs of rust, so I found a local body shop that specializes in auto restoration and dropped off my Puch-G.

After the inevitable "wow that is a cool car" they asked what I wanted to be done. I told them that I was not looking for a show car, just to get the rust under control and get it protected so I can drive it around without worrying about the body acting like a sugar cube in a cup of coffee.

G-Wagon Rust Repair

I stopped by 3 days into the work to give it a quick look over. They are doing a fine job cutting away the rust and welding in new metal. From what I can see it will be good as new in no time. Check out the rust that was cut away from behind the front of the wheel and the correct way to weld in new sheet metal.

I'll keep you update with the progress as work continues. 

Heater Fan Motor Replacement

When I was doing the test drive for my Puch-G I noticed the cabin fan did not work. "No big deal," I thought to myself. - it is probably a fuse or a defective switch. Even if it was the motor, I had replaced cabin motors in my MG-B and Jaguar MKII so how hard could it be?

Some quick troubleshooting with a volt-ohm-multimeter confirmed the switch was getting power, working and it was probably the blower motor. So what if it needed to be replaced, no big deal because I've done it before. I was right... and wrong: replacing the motor is very easy, getting to it, not so much.

My Puch-G is an old Austrian Military G from 1991 and since it was a radio truck, it features a 24v electrical system so when I called Sean at EuroTruck Importers and he said he had a Bosh 24v motor PN 0130007004 in stock I was worried that it would be hard to find later so purchased it for $135.

That Bosh blower motor sat on the shelf for almost two years before I got the nerve to replace it. Asking around about replacing the motor, everyone said it was no big deal, "you just have to pull out the dash." After three days of work, I'm going to tell you not only do you have to pull the ENTIRE dash, trim, glove compartment, gauges, vents, handle, center console, steering wheel, windshield support (my windshield folds down), switches, turn signals, heater ducts, metal dash, and the heater. You see the cabin fan sits in the middle of the firewall between the air-intake and the cabin.

It is not hard work, it just takes a LOT of time. I'm not going to go through the process step by step because the W460 G-Wagons were made for well over a decade and military versions like mine even longer. So dash configurations differ over the years. What I want you to know is that the process is not hard but is time-consuming. Easily done by anyone with medium skill level and simple tools.

As you start pulling the car apart, follow these simple rules:

• Remove the negative connector from your battery prior to doing anything.
• Take photos as you go to document where everything goes.
• Mark the screws and bolts so they go back to the correct place - poking them into cardboard with Sharpie notes works great.
• Don't force anything, most parts come out easy, so if it is not coming out, look for more screws.
• The flexible ducting will easily break, so just order some before you get started.
• While in there, plan to put some Dynamat and Dynaliner on the firewall and on the inside of the dash to quiet things down.
• Blow everything out with compressed air, and do a deep clean before putting it back together, I used dishwashing liquid bath and a clean water rinse.



W460 Dash Removed Showing Heat Exchanger

• Use Deoxit on the electrical connectors.

The photo here is what it should look like after pulling everything out. That dust you see is over 30 years of dirt courtesy of the Austrian military. In the middle is the entire heating and blower unit. You will need to remove the side plenum ducts shown here prior to removing the center unit. There were three Phillips screws on each side. Don't attempt to remove the top plenum as it is difficult to remove and the unit comes out nicely with the top attached.

You can see the flexible side and windscreen ductwork has been removed on the right and the left it still connected. You will need to remove the top dash prior to getting the heater/blower out. There are two small Phillips-head screws in the back holding the top dash in place. Remember to remove the coolant hoses on the right side. Turn off the heat valve and have a small container handy as you will get some coolant spilling into your cabin.

Once out you will need to take the heat exchanger apart to get to the fan motor on the backside. This process is easier if you heat up the box a little with a hairdryer and use some trim tools to pry the tabs out while pulling the back off. Be careful the tabs are brittle and will break.

Once out you will see the fan and in my case the resistor for low-speed operation. My Puch-G only has two speeds later W460 trucks feature a three-speed fan. You can remove the cables by unplugging them from the motor, they are polarized so there is no way to plug them in wrong. Remember to spray the electric connectors with Deoxit.

Remove the two spring clips holding the motor and slip it out toward the back with the fan attached. The fan is very difficult to remove, but it is held in place with only friction, no glue, clips or screws. Be careful with the fan because you will notice some clips on the blades that were put in place to balance the fan; consider using some tape to hold them in place until after you get it installed again.

Clean everything very well. The new motor came with a plastic cover that made me think it would not fit, but the cover just needed to be removed. Also, on the back of my old motor is a small plastic cap covering the rear bearing, I carefully removed it from the old motor and snapped in on the new one. I slid the motor in place, installed the clips that held the motor secure, electrical connectors then finally mounted the fan. Once again the fan held in place on the spindle with friction and don't push it too far in as the fan will scrape against the housing. I tested the fan with a motor prior to putting the heater box back together.

I pulled out the heat exchanger (it looks like a radiator) and blew it with compressed air I also replaced the foam holding the exchanger in place as it was deteriorated. All the plastic pieces got a bath inside and out then I put the heater box back together.

Cleaned and Mounted Heat Exchanger

Then I simply reversed the take apart process carefully following the order; hint: leave the glove box, steering wheel, gauge cluster, and speaker cover for last - even after installing the center console. Here is how the cleaned heating unit looks installed before putting the dash back in. No more Austrian dust!

I also changed the heater valve cable. These are notorious for getting hard to adjust over time and with everything apart super easy to replace and adjust.

While all the parts were out, I took the opportunity to thoroughly clean the dash parts and put some Dynamat on the backside of the metal dash to kill that tin can sound. I also used some rubbing compound to clean up the painted pieces and polished them with car wax. All plastic pieces got a bath before putting them back in as well.

Some of the foam that was between pieces needed replacing so I used some adhesive weather stripping to replace the foam with new. Now the truck has a working fan that blows clean air and my dash looks good as new. Just remember - this project takes TIME. After 2 years of procrastination, my defective motor is finally replaced and the heater blows clean air.

Puch 300GD OM613A Turbo Swap

Anyone following the 2019 Barrett-Jackson auction in Scottsdale will quickly realize there is a strong market for well restored G-Wagons. With so much market potential, why not reimagine more G's? The first project for me was turning a G55 into an AMG G55 Squared. I know it was never a production model, but some portal axels, new springs, king shocks, bead lock wheels, and 35" tires... it comes awfully close.

What do to with a sluggish Puch 300GD? Last year I picked up a Getrag 5-Speed from Europe so why not the upgrade the OM617 naturally aspirated 3.0 diesel and 4-speed with an OM617A turbocharged engine with the 5-speed.

I've owned a turbo swapped 300GD before and you can really feel when the turbo kicks in. I'm looking forward to mating it with a 5-speed to increase the top end speed when driving on the highway.

For those not familiar with the OM617 of the '70s and '80s it was one of the most successful and bulletproof engines ever manufactured by Mercedes. Well maintained versions have been known to register over half a million miles without being rebuilt. At only 85 HP, the inline 5 powerplant was not zippy but they did feature good milage and when fitted to cars like the 300D they were well received in Europe and then later in the US. The engine featured a simple mechanical design that, once running, required no electricity.

In 1976 Mercedes started testing a redesigned engine that added turbo. Several records were set and over 200 HP produced was by test models. By 1978 production models existed and in the US it was mated to the W116 that became the first turbocharged diesel sedan. The 300SD became a popular car during the energy crisis ushering in the age of diesel power for passenger cars. As a turbo powerplant, the OM617A produced 121 PS (89 kW; 119 hp) @ 4350 rpm, torque 230 N⋅m (170 lb⋅ft) @ 2400 rpm.

Tuners have been known to squeeze more power from the 3.0 inline 5 OM617A by using high-performance fuel pumps, injectors, and turbochargers featuring intercoolers. Extreme cases have recorded  well over 200 HP to the crank although the longevity of the engine will surely take a hit.  

I've enlisted the help of the folks at Reinvent the Wheel to design the powerplant for my Puch G. They build a high-performance OM617A with an upgraded camshaft and Bosh M-style fuel injection pump to deliver an additional 40-50 HP over the stock OM617A. The plan is to exceed 150 horsepower when all is said and done.  

The upgrade will require the use of some components from the original engine, including the 24V alternator, power steering, glow plugs, flywheel and vacuum pump. I'll need a new clutch, for the 5-speed and a new shorter driveshaft. Once complete the truck should have better performance at altitude (I live at 7000' elevation) and at highway speeds. 

Look for a full review when the truck is finished in a couple of months. 

Once complete, the "turtle" will be going to the body shop for some touchup bodywork and I'll get started on bringing the interior back to its original spartan military specifications.

G55 Portal Update #2

I've been without my G55 since late May but I continue to get updates. It looks like all the parts are in and we have made the final decisions on the build. The folks at GwagonParts keep wanting to trick out the truck visually. Suggestions include newer G63 bumpers and ground effects, blackout all the chrome and even possibly a hood scoop. yea that would look awesome but I keep telling them FUNCTION over FORM.

To that end here is a final list of what we are doing:

Tibus 2nd Generation Portal Conversion that includes: 125mm Portals, 2 Front Steering Knuckles, Heavy-duty CV Joints, Heavy-duty Rear Axel Shells, Rear Brake Calipers, Rear Brake Rotors, Front and Rear Axle Braces and new ABS Sensors.

Suspension: G550 Springs, King 2.5" Performance Shocks with Extended Oil Reservoir - 20 Compression Settings, and Custom Reservoir on Shock.

Wheels: Tibus Aluminum Beadlock 18x9 Wheels in Matt Black, Nitto Ridge Grappler R/T 35x12 5R18 Tires,

Recovery: Thor Front Winch Mount for Mercedes G55, Smittybilt 97510 X 2O Waterproof Winch, Reverse Tire Mount for W463, Mercedes OMB 18' Wheel for Spare Tire, W463 Professional Roof Rack with Ladder and a Smittybilt 2781 5.65 CFM Universal Air Compressor.

This will replace my 2001 Jeep XJ that was sold on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/183946968481 

G55 Portal Update

A few weeks ago I sent my G55 off to GwagenParts for a major upgrade. The goal is to untame the work done by AMG and turn the truck back into the off-road beast it was designed to be. And because I see all my cars as platforms to be modified, I decided the G55 should be reimagined as well.

While the entire suspension is getting converted to perform off-road, the main focus is providing lift and stability. That means portal axels rather than a traditional lift kit. Portals and new tires will lift the entire car, including the axels and differentials up an additional 7" while a traditional lift kit will only lift the frame and leave the axels and differentials to be banged up by the road.

I chose the Tibus kit offered by GwagenParts because of the excellent compatibility with the G55, relatively low cost, and quality German design/build. I also thought they would work well with the Tibus Beadlock wheels and King shocks.

So far the portals are installed with the softer and taller G550 springs and new KING shocks.

If all goes as expected, this will be a powerful 500+ HP, supercharged V8 beast of an off-road machine. I'll keep you updated on the progress as the build continues.

Saying Goodbye (for now)

I've been enjoying an AMG G55 as a daily driver for two years. In that time, I've taken it on road trips, some basic off-roading, and tooling around town in all sort of conditions. I've come to the conclusion that while it has a nice interior, it is and always be a truck.

I'm perfectly alright with that. A 500 HP truck with a supercharged V8 is really what this Georgia boy wants to drive around. I even like the nice entertainment system (stay tuned), the climate-controlled leather seats, and all the fancy Mercedes features. The thing is when AMG supped it up, they took some of the truck away and tried to make it more street friendly.

I've decided to go big and make it much more like a truck. Today I'm saying goodbye to my truck because it is going away for a makeover at G-Wagon Parts. I'm going to get a trailer hitch, portal axels, off-road springs, KING shocks, bead lock wheels and proper truck tires. More to come!