Fuel Delivery Game Changer: Lift Pump Install on the W460

After finally upgrading to the plastic fuel tank on my 1990 Puch 460 diesel, I decided to tackle something I’ve been meaning to do for years — install a diesel lift pump. And let me tell you, the difference is night and day.

The Bosch mechanical injection pump used in these old diesel G-Wagens is a marvel of analog engineering — entirely mechanical, no computers, just precision machining. It draws fuel from the tank using suction alone, relying on a small internal lift mechanism to pull fuel all the way forward through filters, lines, and any air bubbles or restrictions along the way. The problem is, it was never designed to deal with modern fuel blends, aging hoses, or tank swaps. By adding even a small amount of positive pressure from an external lift pump — say 4–6 psi — you’re giving the Bosch pump a much easier job. Instead of sucking fuel through a long, potentially leaky run, it’s now being fed a steady, pressurized stream. This keeps the injection pump cooler, reduces cavitation, and eliminates hard-start problems caused by air intrusion or fuel drain-back. It’s the kind of simple tweak that makes old-school tech feel modern again.

Because my truck has a 24V electrical system, I went with a 24V Facet Cube solid-state pump (12V versions are avaible), mounted low and tight near the tank, tied into the existing fuel pickup line coming off the new vertical sender with an inline filter.

You can simply disconnect the existing rubber hose from the fuel supply metal tube (top is supply, bottom is return), connect the pre-filter to the hose, run a short hose from the filter to the lift pump, then a short hose out from the pump to the metal tube. I ran 14-gauge automotive wire in a sleeved jacket alongside the factory harness, grounded it properly, and tied the power into a 5A fused circuit on the fuse block. The three fuses on the right side of the fuse box are tied to the ignition.

What I didn’t expect was just how transformative this simple addition would be.

Starting is instant. Throttle response is sharper with more power. Cold starts no longer involve that hesitant sputter — just a clean, confident idle. Even after long sits or filter changes, the system now primes itself, while the glow-plugs warm the pre-chambers, without a hand pump or cracked injector lines. In fact, after swapping the tank, I was able to fully bleed the system simply by turning the key (but not cranking) and letting the pump push fuel through. Bleeding took about two minutes for the bubbles to vanish.

While I installed this system on my W460 G-Wagen, the benefits apply to any rig running the OM617 or OM617A diesel engine — whether it’s a G, a W123, W126, or anything else in the Mercedes diesel family. In fact, any pre-1990 W460 diesel with the stock mechanical draw setup would see improved performance, easier starting, and faster priming with a low-pressure lift pump added to the fuel system. That said, gasoline-powered G-Wagens don’t need this mod — they already run electric fuel pumps as part of the factory injection system. But if you’re an oil burner, especially with aging hardware, this is one of the best quality-of-life improvements you can make.

The old iron just keeps getting better.

Cast Iron Guides not Bronze in your OM614 Head

I was tooling along the highway heading home when I lost power. I had a problem with my turbo in the past, but this felt different. The engine was running really rough. I was lost to home so I pulled over and used a tow strap to pull the truck home.

For sure it felt like one of the valves was not working properly, so I pulled the valve cover, and sure enough, the exhaust valve on cylinder 4 was not working. Looking closely, it looked like the valve lifter guide had popped out. 

This engine was from Diesel Mercedes but it looks like their work is not quite up to snuff. Like I said, the turbo they supplied failed, and they sent me a new one and now the head is giving me problems. I thought about working on it myself but decided to tow the truck to my local shop.

They rebuilt the head, and when I picked up the car, halfway home the same thing happened.

THIS IS IMPORTANT: the folks who supplied by OM614a Turbo, used bronze guides when rebuilding the head. The tech at my shop said that the original head featured cast iron guides. So they got another head replaced all the seals, and installed cast iron guides. 

Now the engine works great and actually has more power than ever. 

Tibus Beadlock Wheels

Do you ever get something stuck in your mind and it just worms around until you have to give in? It happens to me all the time. I got it in my mind that my G55 should be less of a road machine and more of an offroad monster. I've seen a couple of 4x4 squared G-Class trucks and, while I never drove one, that was the direction I wanted to go.

As part of the process, I got my mind sent on bead lock wheels. Even though I most likely would not be airing them down often, it was in my head, so it had to happen. Most of us know that the 4x4 squared uses Hutchinson Wheels but since I was going with Tibus Portal Axels, it made sense to go with the Tibus Portal Axels. Right? Wrong!

I'll cut to the chase here and say the wheels are working well, ride well, hold pressure, and look great but the road was a long and bumpy one -- costly too. Honestly, I wish I had purchased a set of four 18" Hutchinson wheels that, at the time of this writing go for about $4,000 a set. 

When I had my G55 converted to a G55 4x4 squared, I purchased a set of four Tibus 18" bead lock wheels for about $5,000. From the moment I got them I had trouble. They were not balanced properly and the TPMS sensors came unglued from the liner as were rattling around inside. Since the work was done at GwagenParts in California, I took the truck to a local 4x4 called the shop to get them balanced and the TPMS properly mounted. Most of my problems began here. 

Every time you pull the wheels apart, the o-rings need to be replaced. Tibus does not publish the o-ring specs so I sent a note to Tibus and they shipped me new o-rings.  It takes a couple of weeks for them to be shipped from Germany at a cost of about $200. Hint #1: keep extra o-rings handy. 

Corrosion of Tibus Wheel

XTC Motorsports did a pretty poor job installing the TPMS bands, putting the wheels back together, and balancing them. Once again they were not balanced and the tires leaked air. 

Bill Rader told me about issues Tibus was having with the liners and offered to get me new Hutchinson liners (yes they fit) clean up the wheels and get them balanced. $3,500 later they work great. Although, I will say the fit and finish of some of the parts on the Tibus don't hold up well on the salty roads in Utah. 

The wheels spent about 8 months at Bill's place and luckily I have a second set of AMG wheels and tires so I was able to keep my car on the road. The first thing Bill noticed was that when his team pulled the wheels apart and found a bunch of corrosion and several of the studs were cross-threaded.

Stripped Stud

I had to order o-rings again and this time studs from Tibus. Most of the delay with having the wheels fixed was no fault of Bill Rader's team but was tied up with getting the parts from Tibus. Bill and his team got the wheels cleaned up, and replaced the lock nuts with Hutchinson nuts, and the old defective liners with new Hutchinson 18" Liners.

Two years later, I'm finally happy with the wheels. They ride smoothly at highway speeds, keep pressure and the truck handles well. I will say that after investing almost $9,000 in the wheels, I wish I had purchased the Hutchinson wheels and saved myself $5,000 in maintenance and a lot of time. 

So if you get it into your head that bead lock wheels are in your future, lean on my experience and go with Hutchinson. 

W461/W460 Engine Swap

I've been dabbling in G-Class cars since 2014 when I purchased my 1987 300GD SWB. I loved that truck. It already had an upgraded OM617A turbo so I set out to make it a nice daily driver with a fresh interior, heated seats, and a killer stereo. I learned a lot about G-Wagons and caught the bug big time. 

In 2016 I found an Austrian Military Puch-G for sale here in town. My friend and I took it for a quick test drive and fell in love with the spartan nature. Yes, it needed TLC and it was slow but in time I know it would be amazing. Now it is finally as done as any car can be and I gotta tell you - I LOVE IT and find myself driving it more than my G55.

I want to focus on the powertrain choice I made. I'm no stranger to engine swaps, planting a V8 302 in a 1972 Ford Pinto (insert fire joke here) and an LS3 in a 1978 Corvette both with very good results. The LS3 is an exceptional engine, has a great support community for swaps, and once sorted is powerful and reliable. I must admit, I was tempted to drop an LS into my G. 

I've seen a lot of early G's get the OM606 engine swapped with a 5-speed transmission. This is a very popular option in Europe, and I've seen some very nice examples make their way to the states. All that being said, I would like to make a strong case for the OM617A engine and Getrag 5-Speed setup.

The early W460/W461 had several engine options that all shared common characteristics: exceptional reliability and a lack of power. Even the wonderful 2.8 DOHC M103 featured in the iconic R107 280SL was detuned somewhat when offered in the 280GE. Anyone who has driven a G-Wagon from the '80s will tell you, they are exceptional off-road and all underpowered!

I've had two G's with the OM617 engine and can tell you, they are amazing engines. Good torque, bulletproof, and super easy to work on. The OM617 has an exceptional reputation bordering on a cult following. Like any powerplant for the early G-Class, the 3.0L 5-cylinder OM617 with 80hp simply did not have enough power for highway driving and without overdrive, top speeds on the early G-Wagons was horrible.

The thing is, when the OM617A was introduced, Mercedes-Benz added a turbo and in early trials was able to squeeze as much as 227hp out of the powerplant -- even more power than a stock OM606. Now that much boost will shorten the life of an engine, but one can get respectable performance and long engine life from an OM617a when coupled with a high-performance injector pump. 

To me, the OM617a with Getrag 5-Speed makes the most sense to me for the following reasons:

• OM617a is an easy drop-in for most G-Wagons
• The OM617A is close to the experience provided with the OM617 with more power
• The Getrag 5-Speed was offered on some G-Wagons
• Performance and drivability are exceptional

Let's start with the platform. It is easiest to drop an OM617A into a 300GD because the fuel system, ignition, gauges, and glow plug power are already in place. The next easiest platforms to upgrade are the other diesel G's, and finally, the most difficult would be the petrol versions. 

If starting with the 300GD, don't try and slap a turbo on the original OM617 because the engine was not designed for the boost. You could, however, drop in a high-performance M-Style Injection Pump by Bosch and get 10-15% more performance and call it a day, but why stop there? The high-performance pump with the OM617a turbo engine will upgrade your rig to well over 150hp and provide the best performance. If you already have an OM617a in any car, the high-performance Bosh Injection Pump for the Turbo engine can provide 50-60 additional horsepower. 

You will need to find an OM617a from a donor car or an engine rebuilder. Most rebuilders will let you use your old OM617 as a core credit. 

Once the engine is sorted you will have the acceleration and power you need for driving around town, but the top-end speed will still be limited by the redline of the engine. I've found that anything over 100 kph or 65 mph requires overdrive. That is where the Getrag or 711 transmission comes in. Do your research because the 711.110 civilian and 711.116 military versions have a top-end 1:1 ratio and do not provide overdrive. For increased top-end, you really want a 711.113 civilian or 711.117 transmission military with overdrive. 

These Getrag 5-speed overdrive transmissions are VERY hard to find. If you are looking for one, you are in luck because most folks are spending big bucks and upgrading older G's to OM606 and those modern engines won't really work with the 711.117. I was lucky to find a company in Germany that does swaps that is more than happy to sell old 711.117 transmissions and for a few hundred dollars was able to find one. 

Be prepared for some extras. Most likely you will need a new clutch, flywheel, motor mounts, and shaft between the transmission and transfer case. This is a great time to get some new glow plugs. The OM617a also runs hotter so you will want to take this opportunity to recore your radiator or get a new high-performance one. Also, some plumbing for the air intake will be necessary. 

Resources:

OM617 Performance Parts Including High-Performance Fuel Injection Pumps
OM617a Used Engine
Basic Rebuilt OM617a Engine 
High-Performance Rebuild OM617a Engine

Rust Bucket Update

As people started driving again, my local body shop experienced a dramatic uptick in requests for fender bender repairs. My 300G was relegated to the important job of collecting dust for two months. Finally, they started working on it again and my Puch-G has been primed and painted with a brand new military green coat of paint. 

They have started putting it together again and have found some of the trim pieces need to be replaced so the shop asked me to source them. The parts included the driver's side rocker panel, front turn signals, rear license plate illumination, and some wolf door panels. I placed a quick order with Expedition Imports and luckily everything was in stock and has been shipped. 

Once the assembly is complete, the shop will apply the wax undercoating to keep the body protected from rust and I'll be able to take my Puch-G to G-Amboree 2020 in Las Vegas to run with all the tricked out Gs.

G55 AMG 4x4 Squared

I know, there was never a 2011 AMG G55 4x4 Squared, but it would be cool right? In February of 2018, I found a low mileage G55 at the local Mercedes-Benz dealership.  I had driven a supercharged 5.0L Hand-Build V8 G-Class before and was blown away by how the supercharged powerplant propelled the 3-ton truck down the highway.

For some reason, 500HP seems to be a sweet spot for me. Just enough power to make your gut have that WOW feeling, but not so much that you lose control. I've got a Saleen Mustang, a 2020 Corvette C8, and an LS-powered 1978 Corvette all with about 500 HP. The naturally aspirated hot cammed 6.2L LS mated with a close-ratio manual 5-speed is a thrill to drive. The supercharged 4.6L in the Mustang sounds amazing and the C8 takes off like a rocket. I know turbos are all the rage and the current twin-turbo setups are amazing, but there is something so smooth about the power curve on a supercharger that comes close to the feel of a naturally aspirated engine. But I digress...

The G55 is a blast to drive but it was set up for highway use. To me, the G-Class was designed to be driven off-road, and turning it into an urban cruiser just did not feel right. So with power to spare, I decided to turn this G55 into the truck it was meant to be.

The build includes Tibus Portal Axels, Tibus 18" Bead-Lock Wheels, Nitto Ridge Grappler tires, King Shocks, Letech Roof Rack, and a front-mounted Smittybuilt Winch. Customizing any car comes with some give and take. The positives were improved ground clearance and better off-road capability will come with some negatives like decreased highway performance. Some I did not know about. In the coming weeks, I'll provide detailed reviews on each of the upgrades, for now here is the Reader's Digest version:

Tibus Portal Axels: I like the added ground clearance and wider stance, but it came at the cost of less crispness in handling. Off-road the added clearance is AMAZING. It is almost like you don't have to pick your line, just drive. One thing that kind of bothers me is a slight rocking when stopping. Additionally, there is a gear reduction that makes the speedometer read about 10% fast. Nobody can tell me how to adjust the computer to compensate, but I'm thinking a 37" tire would take care of the problem. I'm not super impressed with the installation from my builder as they seem to seep transmission fluid.


Tibus Bead-Lock Wheels: Short answer, I don't like them much. Two reasons, they are HEAVY and impossible to balance. Getting the TMPS to work is also a challenge and they are difficult to get airtight. They are nice to air down but honestly, you can air down somewhat with stock wheels and be OK. After about two months with shaking every time I got up to 70 MHP, I replaced them with a 20" AMG wheel and I'm much happier. The AMG setup works well enough off-road and is great on the highway. Now I can get up to high speeds again and have a smooth ride.

King Shocks: Love these. Having a shock that is adjustable is so nice. Yes, it would be great to be able to adjust the ride from inside the car like the 4x4 squared, but just turn the knob on each shock and I can go from a stiff highway setup to a soft off-road set up in about 30 seconds. With the external reservoir, they seem to hold up under punishing use.

Ritto Ridge Grapplers: Exceptional off-road tires, horrible in the snow. I've used the Ridge Grappler in mud, sand, rocks, climbing "waterfalls" and more. They are even fairly good at highway speeds. Not too loud and handling is good. My problem is I live when it snows, a lot. They are on the verge of being useless in the snow. The Continental Terrain Contact is a first-rate SUV tire and works great on the road. So I've got the Tibus wheels setup with the Ridge Grapplers standing by when I need some off-road fun.

Smittybilt Wench: I know this is not a big name brand wench, but the Smittybilt 97510 X 2O Waterproof Winch performs very well! I've pulled everything from a Jeep to a G-Class to a Dodge 3500 HD with a trailer out of stuck situations with no trouble at all. As heavy as the G55 is it makes a great truck to wench from. I LOVE the wireless remote control. For the G55 I used a Thor wench mount to simply mount the wench to the existing Bumper.

Roof Rack: The Letech Austrian-made rack that comes on the PUR and Professional G-Glass sold in Europe. I like the look of the rack, the build is amazing and it is very functional, however, there is a ringing sound within I close any door and there is an increase in wind noise. Also with top mound antennas for satellite radio, there is a reduction in reception quality. Oh - the sunroof is now useless unless you want to look at the bottom side of the rack. I suppose I could remove the front sheet metal for a nicer view. It is very flat on top, you can basically walk on the top of the truck and the tie-down points are generous. I love the rack, but at almost $7000 it is pricey! I suggest purchasing from Bill Rader out of Las Vegas.

I'll start working on some detailed reviews on each of the mods and provide more information and hopefully allow anyone wanting to trick out their truck some first-hand experiences. Feel free to ask questions at any time.

Rust Bucket

Puch-G Without Fender, Grill, and Bumper

The early W640 G-Wagons are prone to rust. Starting in the early '90s the factory started doing a much better job with rust prevention of the body and frame but those of us with early models must use wax behind the body panels to fend off the ravages of rust.  Even then, after years of water and for trucks in snowy environments, road salt will take a toll on the bodies.

My truck was starting to show some signs of rust, so I found a local body shop that specializes in auto restoration and dropped off my Puch-G.

After the inevitable "wow that is a cool car" they asked what I wanted to be done. I told them that I was not looking for a show car, just to get the rust under control and get it protected so I can drive it around without worrying about the body acting like a sugar cube in a cup of coffee.

G-Wagon Rust Repair

I stopped by 3 days into the work to give it a quick look over. They are doing a fine job cutting away the rust and welding in new metal. From what I can see it will be good as new in no time. Check out the rust that was cut away from behind the front of the wheel and the correct way to weld in new sheet metal.

I'll keep you update with the progress as work continues. 

Heater Fan Motor Replacement

When I was doing the test drive for my Puch-G I noticed the cabin fan did not work. "No big deal," I thought to myself. - it is probably a fuse or a defective switch. Even if it was the motor, I had replaced cabin motors in my MG-B and Jaguar MKII so how hard could it be?

Some quick troubleshooting with a volt-ohm-multimeter confirmed the switch was getting power, working and it was probably the blower motor. So what if it needed to be replaced, no big deal because I've done it before. I was right... and wrong: replacing the motor is very easy, getting to it, not so much.

My Puch-G is an old Austrian Military G from 1991 and since it was a radio truck, it features a 24v electrical system so when I called Sean at EuroTruck Importers and he said he had a Bosh 24v motor PN 0130007004 in stock I was worried that it would be hard to find later so purchased it for $135.

That Bosh blower motor sat on the shelf for almost two years before I got the nerve to replace it. Asking around about replacing the motor, everyone said it was no big deal, "you just have to pull out the dash." After three days of work, I'm going to tell you not only do you have to pull the ENTIRE dash, trim, glove compartment, gauges, vents, handle, center console, steering wheel, windshield support (my windshield folds down), switches, turn signals, heater ducts, metal dash, and the heater. You see the cabin fan sits in the middle of the firewall between the air-intake and the cabin.

It is not hard work, it just takes a LOT of time. I'm not going to go through the process step by step because the W460 G-Wagons were made for well over a decade and military versions like mine even longer. So dash configurations differ over the years. What I want you to know is that the process is not hard but is time-consuming. Easily done by anyone with medium skill level and simple tools.

As you start pulling the car apart, follow these simple rules:

• Remove the negative connector from your battery prior to doing anything.
• Take photos as you go to document where everything goes.
• Mark the screws and bolts so they go back to the correct place - poking them into cardboard with Sharpie notes works great.
• Don't force anything, most parts come out easy, so if it is not coming out, look for more screws.
• The flexible ducting will easily break, so just order some before you get started.
• While in there, plan to put some Dynamat and Dynaliner on the firewall and on the inside of the dash to quiet things down.
• Blow everything out with compressed air, and do a deep clean before putting it back together, I used dishwashing liquid bath and a clean water rinse.



W460 Dash Removed Showing Heat Exchanger

• Use Deoxit on the electrical connectors.

The photo here is what it should look like after pulling everything out. That dust you see is over 30 years of dirt courtesy of the Austrian military. In the middle is the entire heating and blower unit. You will need to remove the side plenum ducts shown here prior to removing the center unit. There were three Phillips screws on each side. Don't attempt to remove the top plenum as it is difficult to remove and the unit comes out nicely with the top attached.

You can see the flexible side and windscreen ductwork has been removed on the right and the left it still connected. You will need to remove the top dash prior to getting the heater/blower out. There are two small Phillips-head screws in the back holding the top dash in place. Remember to remove the coolant hoses on the right side. Turn off the heat valve and have a small container handy as you will get some coolant spilling into your cabin.

Once out you will need to take the heat exchanger apart to get to the fan motor on the backside. This process is easier if you heat up the box a little with a hairdryer and use some trim tools to pry the tabs out while pulling the back off. Be careful the tabs are brittle and will break.

Once out you will see the fan and in my case the resistor for low-speed operation. My Puch-G only has two speeds later W460 trucks feature a three-speed fan. You can remove the cables by unplugging them from the motor, they are polarized so there is no way to plug them in wrong. Remember to spray the electric connectors with Deoxit.

Remove the two spring clips holding the motor and slip it out toward the back with the fan attached. The fan is very difficult to remove, but it is held in place with only friction, no glue, clips or screws. Be careful with the fan because you will notice some clips on the blades that were put in place to balance the fan; consider using some tape to hold them in place until after you get it installed again.

Clean everything very well. The new motor came with a plastic cover that made me think it would not fit, but the cover just needed to be removed. Also, on the back of my old motor is a small plastic cap covering the rear bearing, I carefully removed it from the old motor and snapped in on the new one. I slid the motor in place, installed the clips that held the motor secure, electrical connectors then finally mounted the fan. Once again the fan held in place on the spindle with friction and don't push it too far in as the fan will scrape against the housing. I tested the fan with a motor prior to putting the heater box back together.

I pulled out the heat exchanger (it looks like a radiator) and blew it with compressed air I also replaced the foam holding the exchanger in place as it was deteriorated. All the plastic pieces got a bath inside and out then I put the heater box back together.

Cleaned and Mounted Heat Exchanger

Then I simply reversed the take apart process carefully following the order; hint: leave the glove box, steering wheel, gauge cluster, and speaker cover for last - even after installing the center console. Here is how the cleaned heating unit looks installed before putting the dash back in. No more Austrian dust!

I also changed the heater valve cable. These are notorious for getting hard to adjust over time and with everything apart super easy to replace and adjust.

While all the parts were out, I took the opportunity to thoroughly clean the dash parts and put some Dynamat on the backside of the metal dash to kill that tin can sound. I also used some rubbing compound to clean up the painted pieces and polished them with car wax. All plastic pieces got a bath before putting them back in as well.

Some of the foam that was between pieces needed replacing so I used some adhesive weather stripping to replace the foam with new. Now the truck has a working fan that blows clean air and my dash looks good as new. Just remember - this project takes TIME. After 2 years of procrastination, my defective motor is finally replaced and the heater blows clean air.

Puch 300GD OM613A Turbo Swap

Anyone following the 2019 Barrett-Jackson auction in Scottsdale will quickly realize there is a strong market for well restored G-Wagons. With so much market potential, why not reimagine more G's? The first project for me was turning a G55 into an AMG G55 Squared. I know it was never a production model, but some portal axels, new springs, king shocks, bead lock wheels, and 35" tires... it comes awfully close.

What do to with a sluggish Puch 300GD? Last year I picked up a Getrag 5-Speed from Europe so why not the upgrade the OM617 naturally aspirated 3.0 diesel and 4-speed with an OM617A turbocharged engine with the 5-speed.

I've owned a turbo swapped 300GD before and you can really feel when the turbo kicks in. I'm looking forward to mating it with a 5-speed to increase the top end speed when driving on the highway.

For those not familiar with the OM617 of the '70s and '80s it was one of the most successful and bulletproof engines ever manufactured by Mercedes. Well maintained versions have been known to register over half a million miles without being rebuilt. At only 85 HP, the inline 5 powerplant was not zippy but they did feature good milage and when fitted to cars like the 300D they were well received in Europe and then later in the US. The engine featured a simple mechanical design that, once running, required no electricity.

In 1976 Mercedes started testing a redesigned engine that added turbo. Several records were set and over 200 HP produced was by test models. By 1978 production models existed and in the US it was mated to the W116 that became the first turbocharged diesel sedan. The 300SD became a popular car during the energy crisis ushering in the age of diesel power for passenger cars. As a turbo powerplant, the OM617A produced 121 PS (89 kW; 119 hp) @ 4350 rpm, torque 230 N⋅m (170 lb⋅ft) @ 2400 rpm.

Tuners have been known to squeeze more power from the 3.0 inline 5 OM617A by using high-performance fuel pumps, injectors, and turbochargers featuring intercoolers. Extreme cases have recorded  well over 200 HP to the crank although the longevity of the engine will surely take a hit.  

I've enlisted the help of the folks at Reinvent the Wheel to design the powerplant for my Puch G. They build a high-performance OM617A with an upgraded camshaft and Bosh M-style fuel injection pump to deliver an additional 40-50 HP over the stock OM617A. The plan is to exceed 150 horsepower when all is said and done.  

The upgrade will require the use of some components from the original engine, including the 24V alternator, power steering, glow plugs, flywheel and vacuum pump. I'll need a new clutch, for the 5-speed and a new shorter driveshaft. Once complete the truck should have better performance at altitude (I live at 7000' elevation) and at highway speeds. 

Look for a full review when the truck is finished in a couple of months. 

Once complete, the "turtle" will be going to the body shop for some touchup bodywork and I'll get started on bringing the interior back to its original spartan military specifications.

G55 Portal Update #2

I've been without my G55 since late May but I continue to get updates. It looks like all the parts are in and we have made the final decisions on the build. The folks at GwagonParts keep wanting to trick out the truck visually. Suggestions include newer G63 bumpers and ground effects, blackout all the chrome and even possibly a hood scoop. yea that would look awesome but I keep telling them FUNCTION over FORM.

To that end here is a final list of what we are doing:

Tibus 2nd Generation Portal Conversion that includes: 125mm Portals, 2 Front Steering Knuckles, Heavy-duty CV Joints, Heavy-duty Rear Axel Shells, Rear Brake Calipers, Rear Brake Rotors, Front and Rear Axle Braces and new ABS Sensors.

Suspension: G550 Springs, King 2.5" Performance Shocks with Extended Oil Reservoir - 20 Compression Settings, and Custom Reservoir on Shock.

Wheels: Tibus Aluminum Beadlock 18x9 Wheels in Matt Black, Nitto Ridge Grappler R/T 35x12 5R18 Tires,

Recovery: Thor Front Winch Mount for Mercedes G55, Smittybilt 97510 X 2O Waterproof Winch, Reverse Tire Mount for W463, Mercedes OMB 18' Wheel for Spare Tire, W463 Professional Roof Rack with Ladder and a Smittybilt 2781 5.65 CFM Universal Air Compressor.

This will replace my 2001 Jeep XJ that was sold on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/183946968481 

G55 Portal Update

A few weeks ago I sent my G55 off to GwagenParts for a major upgrade. The goal is to untame the work done by AMG and turn the truck back into the off-road beast it was designed to be. And because I see all my cars as platforms to be modified, I decided the G55 should be reimagined as well.

While the entire suspension is getting converted to perform off-road, the main focus is providing lift and stability. That means portal axels rather than a traditional lift kit. Portals and new tires will lift the entire car, including the axels and differentials up an additional 7" while a traditional lift kit will only lift the frame and leave the axels and differentials to be banged up by the road.

I chose the Tibus kit offered by GwagenParts because of the excellent compatibility with the G55, relatively low cost, and quality German design/build. I also thought they would work well with the Tibus Beadlock wheels and King shocks.

So far the portals are installed with the softer and taller G550 springs and new KING shocks.

If all goes as expected, this will be a powerful 500+ HP, supercharged V8 beast of an off-road machine. I'll keep you updated on the progress as the build continues.

Saying Goodbye (for now)

I've been enjoying an AMG G55 as a daily driver for two years. In that time, I've taken it on road trips, some basic off-roading, and tooling around town in all sort of conditions. I've come to the conclusion that while it has a nice interior, it is and always be a truck.

I'm perfectly alright with that. A 500 HP truck with a supercharged V8 is really what this Georgia boy wants to drive around. I even like the nice entertainment system (stay tuned), the climate-controlled leather seats, and all the fancy Mercedes features. The thing is when AMG supped it up, they took some of the truck away and tried to make it more street friendly.

I've decided to go big and make it much more like a truck. Today I'm saying goodbye to my truck because it is going away for a makeover at G-Wagon Parts. I'm going to get a trailer hitch, portal axels, off-road springs, KING shocks, bead lock wheels and proper truck tires. More to come!

Through the Roof!

Barrett Jackson featured three G's and all went for crazy money. Are people finally starting to see the real value in these iconic trucks? I previewed the offerings a few weeks back and featured one stand out example but did not take a deep dive into the other two.

For perspective, you can usually find a clean 80's model G for under $20,000 and a late model AMG version for about $70,000 but what I saw at auction was a bit shocking. Join me for a quick summary and final auction results for all three. 

Let's begin with a wonderfully restored and presented 1987 Wolf. I spoke with the seller and profiled the truck in this blog post just prior to the sale. It seems this car was restored by a professional group out of Germany and I can tell you the attention to detail was exceptional. 

I was pleasantly surprised to see this truck bring $60,500 at auction. Based on these results, expect to see me document the restoration of my Puch-G cabriolet.

Sold on the final day was called a 1996 SWB Europa. I took a good look at this truck and was not impressed. The interior looked worn, the paint job was spotty at best and when I looked under the hood liner, there was a lot of surface rust. Whoever did the bodywork did a poor job and lacked attention to detail.

I was interested so I took the VIN and did some searching and found a forum post that included an entry by someone claiming to be the previous owner. He said the car was purchased from Mastodon for around 25K with a rebuilt engine (300 block and 350 head). I also found the truck offered by CNC Motors for $59K.

I did not attend the final day but was shocked to see this car went for $41,800 at auction. Lesson: Do your research before bidding. 

Finally, let's go crazy. The AMG Mercedes G63 6x6 is a rare bird indeed. It is thought that about 100 were made between 2014 and 2015 and as with any low mile limited edition car they tend to bring a LOT at auction. To illustrate the high expectations this was one of the few lots offered with a reserve. 

The only thing that kept me from purchasing this car was the color. Everyone knows that only the UN should be allowed to have white G-Wagons. 

Even without me bidding, the 2014 example with less than 1000 miles at Barrett-Jackson 2019 broke the one million dollar mark by going for $1,210,000! The crazy thing is, these are titled with a special show title in the US limiting them to only 2500 miles per year. Can you imagine purchasing a truck for over a million and turning it into a trailer queen?

I'm convinced now more than ever those of us with well maintained G's in the states should invest in making them right and auctioning them off!

Brush Guard Quick Release - FOUND

When I got my G55 the brush guard was loose. Turns out one of the quick release bolts was missing. When I called the Salt Lake MB dealer where I purchased the truck about the missing part they quickly offered to find me one. Two weeks later I got a call saying that Mercedes-Benz parts did not have any and they could not find one. A year later I was in Pheonix and it was time for my "C-Service" so while at the service desk for Glendale Mercedes I asked again if they could find the quick release bolt. They said no problem and, like before, after two weeks of looking they could not find one.

I then turned my attention online and checked Four By Four Club and Euro Truck Importers and both showed the part out of stock just as the previous year. This is so strange because the bolt is a common part used by the OEM brush guard for years. 

For those of you who have removed your brush guard, you know this is no normal bolt. It uses a special tool and is not something that can easily be replaced. 

Last week, I decided to look hard to locate one. I looked on eBay, checked the usual places again and after coming up short, started looking on Google images. After some digging, I finally found one. Yes, the price was high, but I was approaching desperation. I had never ordered anything from G-Wagon Accessories before but now it was time to change that so I ordered it. The bolt came in three days and fit perfectly. 

While there I looked over their offerings, and while the prices are high, they do offer a lot of accessories that can enhance the off-road experience of late model G-Wagons. I may have to get the rear bumper and trailer hitch!

Very Special Opportunity

Back at the 2019 Barrett Jackson Auction at Scottsdale where I was able to dive into the three G-Wagons offered, get hands-on looks at each and in one case, speak to the seller. Let's begin with a surprise stand out. The orange 1987 240GD that is offered at no reserve on Friday's auction is an excellent example.

I met with Jeremy Sandler of Segal Motorcar Company who has several cars up for auction and he let me crawl all over the 240GD. This example appears to have started out as a W461 German Military Radio Wolf truck. As you would expect, it has a 24V electrical system with battery shutoff below the center dash. Like the Austrian Puch, the naturally aspirated 4-cylinder diesel engine has features that will allow the truck to operate in about 3 feet of water.

Jeremy told me the truck had been restored in Germany at some point then brought back to Canada. Whoever did the restoration did a wonderful job. The orange paint maintains the flat finish of the original military green and has been expertly applied. I found none of the usual signs of rust on any of the body panels. The suspension looks to have been removed and some parts powder coated and springs and shocks were both upgraded. With such a thorough restoration, I was a bit surprised the original metal fuel tank was not replaced with the upgraded plastic unit found in most modern G-Wagons because there are signs of patching. The rear skid plate that covers the fuel tank is also missing. The trim surrounding the upgraded headlights is ABS and not the original rubber type but look like new as does the rest of the exterior trim. The grill also looks to have been replaced with a newer unit but still maintains the original look.

The interior is a very nice upgrade while maintaining the truck's military bones. I like the way the orange theme was carried into the interior with piping and stitching. The front seats are comfortable and look great, all gauges look clean, all controls are in place and the rear jump seats are restored to a like-new condition. Looking under the mats there was no sign of repair or rust. I appreciated the decision to resist upholstery and use ABS panels on the doors to maintain the spartan feel of the truck. Also nice was to see proper size tires and original wheels. There are enough 80's G-Wagons with oversized wheels and tires and they actually perform better with the right size.

The engine compartment is very clean. Once again orange accents are found under the hood but only on hoses. The only visible upgrade was the new aluminum radiator. The padding under the hood is missing, but it was reinforced to support carrying loads on the hood using the straps. Underneath I found no evidence of fluids seeping from any of the differentials, transfer case, transmission or engine. I'm not familiar with the 240 but was surprised to see there was not a fuel return hose coming from the last injector to the fuel tank as is present with the 300. The rear hose was simply capped off.

It was a pleasure to encounter a well restored and preserved W461. While not strictly restored, this updated model reflects the military heritage of the original with a new theme. For anyone looking for a truck to run around an island, orchard, vineyard, or private ranch this would be a perfect way to get around with a nice level of style. And while I prefer collectors to drive their cars, this one would be right at home tucked away in a collection to be driven only once in a while.

After all was said and done this example brought $60,000 at auction. 

G's at Barrett Jackson Scottsdale

There is no limit to the hype surrounding what many auto enthusiasts believe to be the most anticipated auto auction. This week, we will experience the Barrett Jackson Scottsdale 2019 auction behind the scenes with first-hand interviews with owners and bidders.

This seems to be the year of the truck with a lot of activity around the Dodge Power Wagon and Broncos but because our focus is G-Wagons we will follow three particular auctions. The first to come to auction will be lot #987 1987 240GD Cabriolet then lot #1410  2014 G63 6x6 and finally  #1575.1 1996 Europa G. Lets take a quick look at each one. 

240GD Cabriolet

SWB G-Wagons are very popular, add the indestructible diesel engine and removable tops are a huge draw. The color combination on this G is very nice. While underpowered and not a great highway driver, this is a wonderful off-road truck and would be a great weekend driver. The builder did a very nice job with the interior. It will be interesting to see what this car brings at auction on Friday.

2014 G63 6x6

Barrett Jackson feels like this will end up fetching the big dollars because it is being auctioned on Saturday and one of the very few with a reserve. With only 607 indicated miles on this limited production truck I can understand why! Featuring 6 portal axels, 18" beadlock wheels, bi-turbo AMG 536 HP engine, impressive stance, and clearance that a 9-year-old child can walk under it is menacing. Featured prominently in the main tent, everyone that walks past this example stops, points, and shoots a photo. #crazymbpickup

1996 Europa G

This is my personal favorite. Almost impossible to get in the states, this no-frills G is a great daily driver and off-road warrior. Unlike our first two examples, this SWB has what I feel is the just the right amount of power. Not too much like the G63 and not too little like the 240G it is just right. Add tasteful interior that anyone would find comfortable without the US Spec frills and this is one of the great items that will close the week on Sunday. 

Stay tuned as we visit the floor, talk to the owners and follow the bidding on this weekend to see how healthy the market for the G's are in 2019. And while we are here, we will take a look at two other trends in the 4x4 market Broncos and Dodge Power Wagons. Stay tuned!

DIY Garage Makeover

Most of my friends know I collect cars so when they visit, inevitably they want to visit the garage and check out the cars. While I enjoyed working in my shop, there was a vast contrast between the well-maintained cars and the unfinished presentation of the building they called home. It was time for a garage makeover!

I'm pretty handy with a miter saw, nail gun and even sheetrock mud so I set out to develop a plan. Besides, all the cars are running great and I needed something to work on. 

Unfinished Garage

Our existing garage was a nice 24x24 foot space with 8' ceiling. The exterior looked nice enough, but the inside was simply not finished. Exposed 2x4" studs 16" on center with trusses overhead spaced 24" apart. The floor was a cracked unfinished concrete slab. There was no insulation making the interior impossibly hot in the Arizona summer. 

Insulation and sheetrock would be simple enough, but I wanted to make a nice space that was worthy of the 1978 Corvette Hotrod and my sweetheart's 1956 Thunderbird. 

The first step was to move all the electrical outlets higher on the wall to about 43". This would allow easy access to the outlets without having to climb behind tool chests or benches. I replaced the breakers with 20 AMP GFI type one for the left side and one for the right. I also mounted one outlet in the ceiling for each car just in case I wanted to hang a trickle charger above each car. I used 12/2 Romex with a ground wire and heavy-duty outlets.  

I also added a 30 AMP 220 V circuit to the outside of the long wall terminated in a weatherproof box. This would support a split air conditioning/heat pump system. 

Next was insulation and with only 2x4 studs and only 4" of space on the exterior walls, I considered foam for the increased R-value and amazing vapor barrier. I've used this in my house before with exceptional results, but at almost $3000 the price was just too high for the garage. I opted for Owens Corning pink insulation with a paper vapor barrier. Using a small compressor I attached an Arrow PT50 Pneumatic Staple Gun to quickly install the insulation. 

I wanted a durable surface that was attractive and also was looking to break up the wall. I landed on installing corrugated steel roof panels up to 36" then shiplap for the remainder of the wall. 

Corrugated Metal Wall Installation

Corrugated metal roofing is available at Home Depot from Gibraltar in 6-foot Galvanized Steel Roof Panel to minimize cutting -- one sheet would cover twice the space. I also found a nice way to finish the ends. I used 1/4" galvanized J-Trim that is usually used to finish the end of sheetrock as a way to provide a finishing touch to the corrugated metal. Since corrugated metal is designed for 24" roof trusses, and is only 29 gauge thick I opted to install 1/4" plywood on the 2x4 studs prior to screwing the roofing to the wall. Together with the 1" fasteners, the plywood provided the necessary support to keep the metal sheets from rattling. The entire metal installation process goes like this:

1. Install the 1/4" plywood
2. Install the baseboard leaving 1/2" space between floor and bottom of the base
3. Cut the corrugated metal sheet in half with Wiss Aviation Snips
4. Using a clutched power driver, screw the metal panels to the wall, making sure to hit the studs when possible. I used two rows of screws installing the bottom row first and put the top row in only after installing the J-trim. Make sure to overlap the panels.
5. Overlap more or less to adjust the length and minimize the need to cut with the bends. 
6. Trim the top and any rough edges with the J-Trim. No need to use screws to fasten the J-Trim because the first shiplap board will hold it in place. 

Starting at the top of the J-Trim, install the first piece of Shiplap using a miter saw to trim and level to make sure it is straight. Some may want to start with a piece of trim, but I thought the J-Trim looked clean and liked seeing the top edge of the J-trim. I used a nail gun with 16 gauge finish nails to nail the shiplap directly to the studs. Because we are running the boards across the studs there is I did not feel the need to install strips because the studs are visible. If you are installing shiplap vertically or over sheetrock, strips are a great idea.

Shiplap is usually rough cut and inconsistent, so a gap between planks will provide that old barn siding look. I used the lip of carpenter's square to provide a consistent space between planks. Sliding the square from side to side while holding a level at the top edge provided an easy way to make sure the planks are square.

Hint: consider doing a little planning for the size of the gap. Trimming the top plank with a table saw will be necessary and adjusting the gap will eliminate a strange size top plank and could minimize trimming.

Continue the shiplap installation but leave a gap of a couple of boards until the sheetrock has been installed on the ceiling. Consider using trim pieces to clean up the corners and top as the wood will expand and contract over time.

All that remains for my project is to determine the type of flooring to put in the garage and install the climate control system, but so far the garage is much more comfortable and I'm not ashamed to take my friends to see our cars.

The Best Dystopian Truck - Into the Badlands

Part of the fun of owning an iconic vehicle is taking notice when it appears in film and TV. One of my favorite G-Sightings was in the first season of The Man in the High Castle. The producers selected the G-Wagen as the military truck in an alternate post-WWII timeline where the Japanese and German prevailed. A G-Class variant also appeared in the short-lived TV NBC series, Blood and Oil driven by Don Johnson's character Harlan "Hap" Briggs.

Ally Ioannides on Set

One of the biggest surprises was when I was watching my daughter in her show Into the Badlands and saw the G-Wagon used in the popular dystopic marshall arts drama. How perfect, in a land without computers, guns and only the most basic of technology remains, the good old 80's G will thrive.

My daughter invited me and my sweetheart to visit the set during the shooting of season 3 and as luck would have it, we were able to visit the set of the Window's fort. Behind the fort was a collection of trucks that were used for the shoot. Among them - a couple of W641 former military G-Wagons.

I was shooting black and white film loaded in a Contax G2 Camera so the photos here lack color but it only seems to accentuate the miserable conditions on set. Why anyone would want to work in this rainy, muddy, cold and wet environment is beyond me. But once again the truck seemed perfectly at home in such an inhospitable environment.

So for those of us who have the early G-Wagons that, once started, require no electricity and can run on vegetable oil, we know that producers looking for the perfect truck for the dystopic post-apocalyptic world would do well to pick the iconic G-Wagon.

On the Set of Into the Badlands

New or Old

The Mercedes Gelandewagen has been on the road, and off, since 1979.  Even with the "makeover" in 2019, the truck maintains it's iconic rugged look and exceptional visibility. While European drivers have been enjoying G-Wagons for years, it was not until 2002, when Mercedes-Benz started selling the truck in the US, could you run down to your MB dealer in the states and buy one.

Now with the availability to import cars over 25 years old, including the German and Austrian military surplus competing with the older US G-Class models are available on the 2nd hand market, the decision for those who want a G can be complicated. The basic question becomes: "Do I get an older Euro import or North American Spec (NOS)  G?" As the owner of several of each, I'm going to give you my perspective.

I have owned 3 G's and driven about 15 different versions from a 1985 300G with a turbo upgrade to the AMG G55, and can tell you the experience is more the same than different. From 1979 through 2018, all Gelandewagens feature dual solid axels, ladder on frame construction, coil suspension and 4x4 capability. All of this topped off with a tall, boxy interior with huge windows. As big as the truck looks, it is pretty narrow and the interior can be cozy in the back seat. Think of all G-Wagons as a heavy, 4x4 truck only narrower and shorter. It may be the best compact truck ever produced.

The W460/W461

The W460 and military W461 are very similar in style, build and capability. Having owned both, I can say that there is almost no difference in driving W640 from the 80's and just about all of the W461s. They are excellent off road with a soft easy going way about them. They are comfortable in rough terrain and extremely capable. While you can get variants in gas and diesel with automatic or standard transmissions, I personally prefer the standard diesel versions with the 3L inline 5 engine. Some feel that the late 80's and early 90's were a golden era of Mercedes engines with standouts like the DOHC 2.8, the 3.0 Diesel and the 3.0 straight 6 found in the 300E. All of these engines found their way into early G's. I know some off-road enthusiasts prefer automatic transmissions, but the limited horsepower and high RPM of the MB diesel make the manual a must for road driving. That being said the 300GE, while very rare in the US, is a reliable road truck with very good power and very good high-speed cruising capability.

In normal drive mode, these trucks are rear-wheel drive. It is easy to engage 4-wheel drive while moving simply by shifting the transfer case. In 4 wheel drive mode, the front and back axles are locked together. This is good for off-road, but not so good for road driving. When braking at highway speeds, it is necessary to allow the front breaks to do most of the stopping. Locking the front axes to the rear defeats the proper distribution of breaking and can cause fishtailing. This can be dangerous in snow and wet conditions especially at high speeds.

Because the truck is heavy, you won't see much in acceleration or top speed. Mountain highway driving can be frustrating, however, long drives on level ground will allow you to cruise at 65 MPH even without overdrive.

Off-road is where the truck is amazing. With the ability to lock the front and rear axles from the inside at any time is really nice. I don't know that I have ever been able to get this truck stuck. It does a very good job of keeping all four wheels on the ground and can cross some pretty deep water. I've even towed a trailer and while not fast, the OM614 inline 5 has plenty of torque.

Pros: Great torque, excellent off-road capability, rear and forward locking axels on most models, no computers, the awesome OM617 on the 300GD will run forever, easy to get parts, low purchase price, relatively good fuel economy and easy to fix. Basically your perfect zombie apocalypse vehicle.

Cons: Spartan interior, prone to body rust, poor acceleration, limited top speed, loud on the road, spongy ride that works well off-road, not good on the highway in snow or rain.

Summary: While not the best as a daily driver, if you are looking for a special purpose off-road vehicle, hunting car or weekend fun truck, I found the W461 to be a far better experience than a Jeep Wrangler and much more comfortable off-road. If you want a W640, consider one of the well maintained former military trucks. Military trucks often have low miles/kilometers and are very well maintained compared to the civilian versions. If you are thinking of getting a W640 and doing an engine swap for more power, consider simply getting a newer US Spec truck and enjoy.

NOS G-Class

For the US market, Mercedes-Benz took the G-Wagon truck and turned it into a family urban assault vehicle. Fortunately, unlike the GM Hummer that was made to look like a Humvee on a pickup truck chassis, the G-Class is actually made alongside the military version with the same frame and body. All of the G-Class sold in the US since 2005 share some common traits. They all have V8 engines, automatic transmissions, some degree of an upgraded interior, creature comforts and they have been modified for road use. While still very capable off-road most are shipped with wheels and tires best suited the highway. 

Road driving is very nice although truck-like. If you can afford the fuel, they work very well for a daily driver. They keep the spongy soft ride except for the AMG versions that are outfitted with stiffer suspension for a better road handling. In our household, the stock G55 became a favorite for grocery shopping because of the ability to park it in small spaces and accessibility of the cargo area. All G-Class trucks have good powerplants and the AMG versions accelerate crazy fast for a truck. A friend of mine calls my G55 Saque because he says it moves really well for a large heavy truck. We also have an F150 with the EcoBoost engine and in the mid 400hp range that is crazy quick but feels HUGE next to the G55. I do wish the G gas tank was larger because on long road trips, with a fuel economy running around 12 MPG, I have to stop frequently for fuel. 

The newer trucks also feature the awesome Mercedes-Benz interior experience. Decent stereo, hands-free Bluetooth, cruise control, heated/cooled leather seats, lots of airbags, mostly quiet ride at lower speeds, sunroof, dual mode climate control, turn lights and even a backup camera make the truck almost refined. Heck, it is almost a nice date car. 

Off-road, the car is crazy capable but you will find the AMG versions a little stiff. Also, AMG decided to lower the truck 2" to improve cornering on the road. This allows the truck to actually perform a little better on the road. Unfortunately, it means you have to be careful about driving off-road. The clearance is still more than enough to handle most situations and the engine is plenty powerful, but you should at least fit the truck better off-road tires and a modest 2" lift if you plan to take the car on many adventures.

Unlike the older G-Wagons, the newer models feature all-wheel drive as a default driving mode rather than rear-wheel. This combined with the ABS braking is a huge plus in the snow and road driving. With electronic locking differentials, the driver is prevented from engaging 4-wheel drive mode unless the transfer is set to low. That means on any truck after 2005 the transfer case needs to be set to low to lock the transfer case, front or rear axels unless and then only in a particular order. Transfer case first, then back axel, and only then the front. The nice thing is that as soon as you lock the transfer case, the computer and ABS is disengaged and you can drive this like a normal truck. OLD SCHOOL BABY!

If you plan to drive off-road often, get some Hutchenson beadlocks, off-road tires, put in some portal axels and you will have one of the most bad-ass and most capable off-road setups available. Can you say four-by-four-squared?

Pros: Nice around town, good daily driver, solid feel, great driving experience, capable off-road, lots of power, amazing in the snow, lots of visibility, very reliable, crazy good engineering and rust-resistant body. Honestly, they are fun to drive.

Cons: Horrible fuel economy, stiff for off-road, side pipes not really practical, people assume you are a jerk.

Summary: Most people who purchased the G-Class trucks, used them as a second car and almost never took them off road. You can find some low mileage, accident-free examples that can make this a compelling option. If you are looking for an off-road setup get the G500 or G600 put some beadlocks, upgrade the shocks. some off-road tires and GO. Think of all those people who get Wranglers and drop an LS engine in and upgrade the suspension. Your G-Glass will probably get similar performance, be a great daily driver and ultimately cost less that an extreme Wrangler mod.

The Answer is?

It really depends on what you are looking for. I've never had anyone stop me when driving my G55 and say, "cool truck" but the in the 300GD I get comments all the time, mostly "What is that?" So if you are looking for the cool factor, go vintage for sure. If you are looking for a nice driving experience and are planning to have it as a daily driver, get a newer G-Class. If driving often in the snow and ice, get a newer one with AWD standard and ABS breaks. Both new and old will serve you well off-road as long as you upgrade the tires on the G-Glass and if getting the AMG version consider lifting it a couple of inches and get some real off-road wheels/tires for off-road use.

That being said, I wish MB would sell the BluTec, PUR of Professional versions in the US. That would be my first choice!